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Valve seats and shims issues

6K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Sifi 
#1 · (Edited)
So today finally got my exhaust cam out because it was out of adjustment. It was at .15mm clearance when it should be .20-.30mm. The intake side is fine just the exhaust side out of adjustment. Well when i get my exhaust cam out i pull the tappet bucket out and get the shim. I brought the shim home and measured them and one was a 2.10mm and the other was a 2.20mm shim.

I recently had a full valve job done and valves replaced. I would like to know if my mechanic ripped me off and if i should go complain and try to get my money back. Originally the mechanic told me that the problem started with my top end due to 2.20 shims being in there. and here i am after a full valve job with 2.20 shims still in there. Is this normal? i called another mechanic and he said there is nothing wrong with going to a smaller shim as long as it stays above the retainer and as long as the bucket is hitting the shim still. But i felt the shims when i put em back in and they felt pretty flush with the retainer going smaller i might just be hitting the retainer not sure yet.

What is all your guys' opinions. For a full valve job done i dont think i should be with shims that tiny.
Also the mechanic said he sent the head to a machinist to have the seats cut for the new valves.

I got about 9 hours on the fresh top end only.
 
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#2 ·
Well, the more the seats got cut the smaller the shims you'll end up using. In this case it seems like it won't be getting a hell of a lot better than what you're dealing with. That valve probably just finally seated and broke in and now is in need of a final adjustment. Remember that under the bucket there is a slight step where it meets the shim Which makes it ok for the shim to sit just beneath the valve spring retainer. Overall I think if you adjust it you'll be fine.
 
#4 ·
Ok thank you adams made me feel alot better about dropping 2k in my top end lmfao. Ill be getting a 205 and 215 shim later this week and post if its ok. I was talking to my brother "mechanic heads" knows cars very well. He said on cars you can get new valve seats instead of havin to replace head. Is it the same with the ltr? If not by this summer im going to buy a ported and polished head off ebay for like 700$ a brand new head too
 
#9 ·
ok so i got my top end all back together. The problem now is my timing might be all screwed up. I know there are 2 top dead centers. I know one is compression and i beleive exhaust is the other one. When i was putting my cams back in i had no idea where my compression tdc was anymore. So i just lined up the t line on the timing plug and put the cams as best as i could. i lined up the dots the right way and put it all together. If i set my cams to the wrong top dead center what would happen. i started the quad and at first it had a rough start had to suck gas up in the lines and put fresh oil. So i started it let it run a bit and turned it off. I started it again and it started with a flick of the button. i kept turning it off and back on by the end of the day it wouldnt start anymore just sat there cranking and backfiring. are my cams set to wrong tdc?
 
#10 ·
No because it wouldn't start at all if so

So did you ride it for a bit?

If not then you could just be off a tooth somewhere , tear Down and recheck

If you were riding it around for a bit and it was fine for a bit, then you got a fuel issue or something else somewhere


Sent from my iPhone using Some crappy app
 
#11 ·
Nah i didnt ride it at all. Just started it. I tried to move it and after it moved a little it stalled and thats when the rough starting happened. And it was backfiring alot. It would barely idle anymore. It would stall after idle for a few seconds and it sounded bad. Tommorrow ima tear it down and recheck and see whats wrong. Could it be the sparkplug?
 
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