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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I have the wheels into the tires, but does the front face of the wheels stay behind the bead or does that have to be on the outside of the bead too. Or do only the bead rings sit on the outside and it pinches the bead against the wheel and the beadring like on a race car wheel. This is new to me and I dont wanna screw it up or destroy my new wheels
 

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I did this yesterday. You're making this overly complicated.

Set the rim on the ground with the side that the ring goes on facing upward towards you. Take the tire and push it onto the rim. This will leave half the tire on the rim and half of it off. Push the tire down so that the free side sits on the lip of the rim (you want it centered and off the beadlock bolt holes. Place the ring on which will pinch the tire between the ring and the rim. Then put in all 12 bolts and go in a circular pattern to evenly tighten them. Add air and the tire will expand and ease onto the bead. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OKay yeah thats what I figured needed to be done, and I got it all done this way, just need to fill with air
 

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Sit it with the tread facing up and down....as you fill with air, push on the tread to bulge the tire towards the bead or else all the air will escape out of the other side. Trust me lol
 

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are these dual or single beedlocks, because if they are dual, that is not how you do it
 

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Singles bro
 

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use locktight to i had a couple of the threaded inserts rust up and spin. if they spin they aren't to bad to fix, but still easier to locktight.
 

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I would not recommend using lock tight on the bolts.... what i use is anti-seize so the bolts won't gall the threads, and also torqueing them down in increments 7 lb then 9 lb then 11lb in a star pattern.... just my .02 cents
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (QuadRaceAce88 @ Feb 24 2009, 09:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I would not recommend using lock tight on the bolts.... what i use is anti-seize so the bolts won't gall the threads, and also torqueing them down in increments 7 lb then 9 lb then 11lb in a star pattern.... just my .02 cents[/b]


+1 on that
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (QuadRaceAce88 @ Feb 24 2009, 07:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I would not recommend using lock tight on the bolts.... what i use is anti-seize so the bolts won't gall the threads, and also torqueing them down in increments 7 lb then 9 lb then 11lb in a star pattern.... just my .02 cents[/b]
Anti-seize would work to.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (eldog263 @ Feb 24 2009, 07:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
How do you repair an insert that is spinning??[/b]
to do it you'll need
Three 6-32 1/2" long set screws
A number 36 drill bit
A 6-32 tap
an allen wrench for the set screws
blue or red loctite, i used red

First drill three holes, (use the number 36 drill bit) around the spinning insert, like my three red dots in the pic, get the drilled holes as close to the insert as you can so that your hole just barely touches the metal. As your drilling, the carbon part of the wheel will be really soft and easy to drill, you'll hit a metal shoulder of the insert about 3/8 of an inch down that will drill noticeable harder. drill just far enough down that you go through the shoulder and you can feel the soft carbon on the other side, don't go to far past the metal shoulder or you might go through the inside of the wheel and it probable won't hold air any more, your holes will be a little deeper than 1/2". after you've drilled the holes tap them for the set screws. then put the set screws in with loctite so that the tops of the screws are just barely below flush. when your done the insert shouldn't spin anymore.
 
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