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So I've been searching ways to connect my Pro Design N/O kill switch and starter.......There must be a easier and cleaner way.
This gets rid of the Blob, clutch switch and brake light switch.

1. Follow all handlebar & black blob wires down to the large grey connector at the front of the quad.

2. GREY - cut it off

3. Join ORANGE, ORANGE/WHITE and BLACK together.

4. Join BLACK/YELLOW to starter switch wire.

5. Join BLACK/WHITE to other starter switch wire.

You can now take off all the unused swiches without taking them apart........can be easily re-connected.

[attachment=4428:TEATHER_STARTER.JPG]

Kill Switch.........

1. Find Tip Over Switch behind alloy panel at front of quad.

2. Slide off mount and seperate RED wire, dont cut it just seperate it from the other 2.

3. Splice the RED wire (don't cut it) and connect one wire from kill switch.

4. Ground other wire to front of frame.

[attachment=4430:TEATHER_STARTER_3.JPG]

Finished.......
 

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thats how i installed my tether works great and a easy clean install too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thats how i installed my tether works great and a easy clean install too.[/b]
Yeah, I haven't seen this method listed anywhere on the net so I thought I would post it. Also with the starter; if you just cut the wires down at the grey connector you will save a hell of alot of tracing back from the handlebars; the wires go everywhere before they eventually finish at the front at this connector.

Linc
 

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So I've been searching ways to connect my Pro Design N/O kill switch and starter.......There must be a easier and cleaner way.
This gets rid of the Blob, clutch switch and brake light switch.

1. Follow all handlebar & black blob wires down to the large grey connector at the front of the quad.

2. GREY - cut it off

3. Join ORANGE, ORANGE/WHITE and BLACK together.

4. Join BLACK/YELLOW to starter switch wire.

5. Join BLACK/WHITE to other starter switch wire.

[attachment=4428:TEATHER_STARTER.JPG]

Kill Switch.........

1. Find Tip Over Switch behind alloy panel at front of quad.

2. Slide off mount and seperate RED wire, dont cut it just seperate it from the other 2.

3. Splice the RED wire and connect one wire from kill switch.

4. Ground other wire to front of frame.

[attachment=4430:TEATHER_STARTER_3.JPG]

Finished.......[/b]
Does it kill the quad immediately if you do this?

The reason I ask is because the tip over switch has to be grounded/activated for about 3 seconds before it will kill the quad. Actually the 3 seconds that it takes for the Tip Over switch may be because of the pressure in the lines that is left over after the fuel pump turns off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does it kill the quad immediately if you do this?

The reason I ask is because the tip over switch has to be grounded/activated for about 3 seconds before it will kill the quad. Actually the 3 seconds that it takes for the Tip Over switch may be because of the pressure in the lines that is left over after the fuel pump turns off.[/b]
It's instant; it actually by-passes the TOS but kills the quad like the TOS does.
 

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Why do you have to join the black to the orange, orange/white? Isn't that for the brake lite. Is the black white the on off for the lights and the start button. im running lights hid so i need to hook up the grey and the white black also.

So it is the black/white and the black yellow to the rm start button. The black white also to the lights and the grey to the lights. im running a pro armor so ground one to the frame and the other to the red TOS (splice into it.) Tie the orange/ orange white together???? with the black or not.

thanks for the help
 

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Why do you have to join the black to the orange, orange/white? Isn't that for the brake lite. Is the black white the on off for the lights and the start button. im running lights hid so i need to hook up the grey and the white black also.

So it is the black/white and the black yellow to the rm start button. The black white also to the lights and the grey to the lights. im running a pro armor so ground one to the frame and the other to the red TOS (splice into it.) Tie the orange/ orange white together???? with the black or not.

thanks for the help[/b]
Did ya ever figure this out? try this link if you haven't


http://www.lt-r450central.com/invision/ind...?showtopic=1228
 

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THANK YOU!!!!!!! this has helped a bunch i am only 15 and when i got into the wiring i was lost so thanks a bunch
 

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So I've been searching ways to connect my Pro Design N/O kill switch and starter.......There must be a easier and cleaner way.
This gets rid of the Blob, clutch switch and brake light switch.

1. Follow all handlebar & black blob wires down to the large grey connector at the front of the quad.

2. GREY - cut it off

3. Join ORANGE, ORANGE/WHITE and BLACK together.

4. Join BLACK/YELLOW to starter switch wire.

5. Join BLACK/WHITE to other starter switch wire.

You can now take off all the unused swiches without taking them apart........can be easily re-connected.

[attachment=4428:TEATHER_STARTER.JPG]

Kill Switch.........

1. Find Tip Over Switch behind alloy panel at front of quad.

2. Slide off mount and seperate RED wire, dont cut it just seperate it from the other 2.

3. Splice the RED wire (don't cut it) and connect one wire from kill switch.

4. Ground other wire to front of frame.

[attachment=4430:TEATHER_STARTER_3.JPG]

Finished.......[/b]













>>>>>>>>>>>
Does this work with the Pro Armor Killswitch too. is it the same to install it as the Pro Design.????
 

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If its normally open then yep. I believe both are N/O
 

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FYI!!!!

We tried this on an 07 ltr and it FRIED THE ECU!!!!!!! I say stay away from prodesign, this was a VERY costly MISTAKE!!!!!!
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ltracer91r @ Apr 14 2008, 10:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
FYI!!!!

We tried this on an 07 ltr and it FRIED THE ECU!!!!!!! I say stay away from prodesign, this was a VERY costly MISTAKE!!!!!![/b]
You had a n/o switch wired to the t.o.s.? Ive had this set up for about 30 hours now. Out of nowhere my bike recently started to run like crap. I wonder if its related...
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ltr8182 @ Apr 21 2008, 09:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
You had a n/o switch wired to the t.o.s.? Ive had this set up for about 30 hours now. Out of nowhere my bike recently started to run like crap. I wonder if its related...[/b]
i put one on mine. i rode it for about an hour and all of the sudden it acted likt i pulled the teather and shut off. now when i turn the key on only the nutral light comes on and it doesnt make the whine noise from the computer it usually makes. now it wont start . PLEASE HELP
 

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I ran it that way for 1½ year on my LTR 06, and it worked PERFECT!, until some bastards stole it!


Getting my ltr 08 this weeke and am going to mount it the same way.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (hamilton @ Jul 14 2008, 05:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I ran it that way for 1½ year on my LTR 06, and it worked PERFECT!, until some bastards stole it!


Getting my ltr 08 this weeke and am going to mount it the same way.[/b]
I'm installing my kill switch right now, this way you explained is for the ones that connects to ground when you fall off???

Thanks!!
 

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A killswitch that grouds out when pulled is a Normally Open. Normally closed switches break the circuit when they are pulled. Confusing yes, but that's just what it is.
 

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technically wouldnt it be better to get a normally closed switch and wire the loop circuit from the blob in??? i think its the orange and white and something else... the ones that were wired to the red slide run/stop switch on the blob

that way... when pulled it would break that loop, killing the quad just like sliding the red switch over would...

those of you who had friend ECU's f-ed something up...

understand that the ECU in 99% of cases doesnt send power signals to connectors, it sends a ground... much easier to manage a bunch of ground signals then all of that amperage... its all ground side control... so when u start grounding things on ur own you have the potential to run into problems. when u grounded the power circuit from the TOS u actually may have "powered" the frame area... that juice got back to the ECU

its theory yes... but im looking for a normally closed switch so that i can interupt the circuit the way it was designed to... and btw i cant find many lol

just my opinion
 
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