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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody had this problem?? Need throttle to start, won't idle, blowing smoke. Spark plug is black cleaned it up but still same problem, choke is definately off, air filter clean.

Did a couple of laps of the local mx track this morning, fuel light came on so I was going to hit this jump once more before fuelling up but as I turned it around it stalled. Got it started again, fulled it up but problem remains. Got home, pulled it to bits and don't know where to look next for the problem.

Had ltr for 5-6 weeks and has approx 20 to 25 hrs on it.

Can Anybody Help!!!
 

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Do they offer manufacturer warranties over there? I'd be dropping it off ASAP
 

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I would unhook the cables from the battery, unhook the Cherry Bomb, put the airbox lid back on and put the baffle back in. See if you can get the computer to reset itself. It is feeding WAY too much fuel and fouling the plug.
 

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Check and make sure the throttle bodies are clamped down properly To me it sounds like a sensor issue and if there is an air leak or the air flow sensor is getting erronious readings, this could be the result. It is likely going to be somthing simple so I would start by looking the intake over very carefully along with the sensors, injectors and plugs. Work from the rear of the quad forward. Also make sure the hoses are all hooked up to the tank properly. There are a ton of hoses and one of them likely has to do with the fuel pressure regulator. Hope this help!
 

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Try doing what clone/slief stated above. But if that doesn't work I would check your wiring, you said your fan wasn't coming on correctly, it could likely be a wiring problem. I've had a similar problem on my car, some wires got cut leading to the fans except a few, it caused the efi to go crazy, ran really rich, barely idled, I didn't even attept driving it until it was fixed. haha

good luck, also like mxquad said, if you can't fix it bring it back to the dealer.
 

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Hot, the way to reset the computer to the original mapping is to un hook the battery cables...make sure your TOTALLY unhooked...as a matter of fact..pull the battery off the bike :) NOW touch the positive and the negative cables together and that will discharge the capacitor...thus releasing the new CRBM modified map in the computer memory. When you hook the cables back up the computer will default to the original factory mapping. Honestly I don't think thats your problem but it's a start...when all else fails go back to the basics...#1 rule in service. Hope that helps ya out my friend :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tried it all but still no go, plug js still black and its running like a dogs breakfast. spat the dummy this arvo so i gave it a rest. I then indulged in a couple of scotch and drys when i had an epifany, the fan isnt working!!

What do you think of this??

After todays test ride i noticed it wouldnt rev as hard, the plug fouls up at low revs and is relatively clear at high revs. could this be a fault remedied by the electrical system to pump full of fuel and restrict revs to keep engine running cooler. todays ride would normally require the fan to start, but like the whole time the fault has been around the fan has not kicked in yet.

Does this sound logical or have i just had too many drinks??

If so, how do you test the fan or any of the electrical system??
Trying to chase up a workshop manual, but like everything else, probably wont get one in OZ for another 6 months.
 

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OK, to test the fan...pull the plastics on the right side of the bike (rear brake side?) You should see the fan assembly and a white cover where the fans electrical plug routes to. I believe under the white cover there is a 10amp fuse...make sure that isn't blown. If it is then you should try to ind the cause. It's my experience that fuses never blow for "no reason". If the fuse is OK then we need to find out why the fan isn't running. It's either a switch (thermostatic on the radiator) or a load (motor itself). If you have a meter (uhh...you DO have a meter?) then unplug the fan and warm up the bike. Use the leads on the meter (DC setting) Red lead to either Red or White (can't really see the colors) and the Black lead to Black. If you don't get a 12v signal then it's your switch. If you do get a signal then it's your fan motor. OR....a simple test for the fan is to unplug the fan plug...run 2 wires from your battery straight to the fan and see if it runs. I would try to use some test leads with alligator clips on them. You can find these at any electrical parts store. :)

If you have any questions at all? Try to write me before you blow up your bike...OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Definately had one too many the other night.
I've heard about a diagnostic check to test the electrical system. Can somebody tell me how to run the test?? It doesn't say in the owners manual and none of the dealers ive spoken to have received the workshop manual yet.
 

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THAT I don't know...
 

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Isn't a diagnostic test where a shop or some car garage plugs in something that goes to your quad's computer and it tells you a bunch of info, and it should say what is wrong, unless this is called something else.
 
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From what i have been told it is like a basic test where you turn the key twice or something and it initiates a test that brings up flash codes on your dash, NOT the same as your start up flashing that tells you a plug is off or something. Has anyboby heard of this or is it something you only get on cars?

Completely stripped electrics yesterday, checked for breaks and cleaned all connectors. No change.
Disconnected sensors and all of them registered as a fault on the dash when unplugged.
Short of that, i got ahold of sensor resintance figures and will test this arvo.

If i got a bad batch of fuel through, what could this cause? I've flushed the tank twice now, but is there any possibility of it effecting the system further?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also inspected all hoses and pressure tested (just by blowing through and blocking other end) and found no leaks or holes.

Still have excellent power delivery.
Still hoping it is one of the sensors.
 

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Yes a bad batch of fuel will do that but once you clear it out it will no longer affect the system. I have got high octane bad batches before. While you wouldn't think that it could be so, the fact of the matter is that some stations do not take care of their tanks like they should. All holding tanks produce condensation and if the fuel level in the holding tank gets low to the point that it starts pulling in the condensation that gathers at the bottom of the tank...blamo...bad gas. :angry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In that case, are there any water/fuel separators in the system, or filters for that matter that need to be cleaned? I dont know if it would fix the problem but it is something that can be done.
 

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I don't believe there is any fuel filters or seperators. I didn't see any when I pulled the tank a couple of weeks ago. :angry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mate, sh#t out of ideas.
Tested the sensors, none of them showed the same readings as what I was faxed through. Also trying to find out which sensor they are referring to with their abreviated codes, makes it difficult with no manual.
How do you bypass the tip over switch/sensor and what is the sensor for mounted centrally on the back of the brackett behind the FI controll module??

Bike is completely back in stock mode, still running rough but will just idle with the the cold start/choke on full.
Is it possible the bike is running lean? A black powdery plug can apparently caused by unleaded fuel, also the exhaust has a very unusual smell to it. Difficult to describe, kinda sickly sweetish sort of smell.

Called Suzuki OZ, still haven't heard back from them.

Gonna be a long time out of water for this duck!!!!!!!!
 
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