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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've ridden other people's quads/ bikes but this one is the first 4wheeler I've ever owned. I bought a 2006 LTR-450 about a month ago for a great price with no clutch. My mechanical knowledge is below average in comparison to the brains I see on this forum. I put a factory clutch back in it, and HOLY SHIT is this thing fast! WOW! Before I took it to the track I checked the oil and it wasn't showing on the dipstick. So I did what seemed reasonable to me... I started pouring and checking until I saw some... An additional quart later still no oil and I said screw it "it has oil in it" It burped oil at high RPM and I didn't play with it for long before trying to drain the catch can. There wasn't any in the catch can and it was barely spitting anything out while running. I called it a day. Research on this forum showed the the screens were clogged and that I needed to split the case(out of my league.) So I tried flushing out all of the lines and spraying brake cleaner all inside of the case. And it worked, I am pumping oil into the catch can again! There's still a lot of very fine metal in the oil but I am hoping to get that with very frequent oil changes. Now...the motor starting bogging out at around 3rd gear wide open, sometimes 2nd sometimes it would run all of the way though them. I found that extra quart of oil in airbox. I have cleaned it all out, sprayed the intake with choke cleaner, changed the plug, sprayed the injector, and tested the TPS. I was getting some low voltage in and couldn't seem to get anything out. When I put it back together, it gave worse symptoms( but similar) I determined that at this point at least that I had a bad TPS. The bike was running great when not under a load. No smoke, backfire, and sounds like a beast. Now I learned EVERYTHING about this bike through THIS forum... THANK YOU. Any help or input on what I've got going would be appreciated.
 

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Did you remove the lines from the reservoir tank and make sure the return screen is cleaned? I would do that if there was metal fragment in the motor. You may also want to pull the oil filter and cut it in half and check to make sure the system is clean now. Good luck with the fuel injection and electrical system...I waved the white flag after two years of gremlins and switched to carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter in the swirl tank and fuel pump are clean and set your TPS to 0.6 volts between the yellow wire + and the brown wire ground with the key on. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What am I looking for when I cut the filter in half? I know that there is probably some fine metal fragment still there. The fresh oil looks like gun metal.
 

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I bought a used bike that had metal throughout the motor from a previous repair job someone didn't clean properly. I went to Wal-Mart and picked up a gallon of cheap 40 wt oil, I believe it was Castrol 15W 40 for about $15. I cleaned all the lines and screens like I mentioned, then filled the bike with the Castrol, started it up and ran it until it got to about 180F. I shut it down and pulled the filter. It had some metal in it so I replaced it and did the whole thing over again. The second time it had less metal in it so I replaced the filter again (I believe I bought them on ebay 3 for about $10), drained the oil and put in my ATV oil. I rode the bike about an hour and checked the filter, it was fine. Total cost was about $25 and a few hours of work but didn't have to split the cases.
If the fresh oil has turned gray you may have clutch fiber material gunked up inside the motor. I've had clutch failures where the oil was fresh and quickly turned that turbid gray color. You may want to inspect your clutches too. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought a used bike that had metal throughout the motor from a previous repair job someone didn't clean properly. I went to Wal-Mart and picked up a gallon of cheap 40 wt oil, I believe it was Castrol 15W 40 for about $15. I cleaned all the lines and screens like I mentioned, then filled the bike with the Castrol, started it up and ran it until it got to about 180F. I shut it down and pulled the filter. It had some metal in it so I replaced it and did the whole thing over again. The second time it had less metal in it so I replaced the filter again (I believe I bought them on ebay 3 for about $10), drained the oil and put in my ATV oil. I rode the bike about an hour and checked the filter, it was fine. Total cost was about $25 and a few hours of work but didn't have to split the cases.
If the fresh oil has turned gray you may have clutch fiber material gunked up inside the motor. I've had clutch failures where the oil was fresh and quickly turned that turbid gray color. You may want to inspect your clutches too. Good luck
The bike did not have a clutch in it when I bought(it was bad) It has a new clutch in it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you remove the lines from the reservoir tank and make sure the return screen is cleaned? I would do that if there was metal fragment in the motor. You may also want to pull the oil filter and cut it in half and check to make sure the system is clean now. Good luck with the fuel injection and electrical system...I waved the white flag after two years of gremlins and switched to carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter in the swirl tank and fuel pump are clean and set your TPS to 0.6 volts between the yellow wire + and the brown wire ground with the key on. Good luck.
There are screens in the return line? I removed the two lines on the reservoir and flushed and blew them out. There was definetly some crap in them but not enough to clog I dont think.
 
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