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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I rebuilt the top end got it all back together and it would not start. check valves probably 20 times so there good. new battery passed load test. all connections are good. timing is correct. I also took the magneto cover off bc we let the timing chain get loose and come off and the gasket. and of course we got in a hurry and used gasket glue instead of a paper gasket. anyways, can there be clearance issues with that cover and the starting idler gear bc it feels awfully tight like its in a bind? we have another ltr and checked to see if it was tight like the other and it wasn't. ive checked every thread I can think off and cant find a thing. sorry for the novel lol
 

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does it feel like the flywheel is rubbing on the cover when you turn it over by hand. Just hold your hand on the cover when you turn it over.
 

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I've heard that using sealant instead of a gasket can cause the magneto/flywheel to rub the case. So that's probably your problem. My problem was the decomp lever but it wasnt binding, it was just cranking slow. Pull your spark plug and see if it still is binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ive never heard of the it rubbing like that but I will check It tomorrow. but would it make the idler gear hard to turn like it is? and I don't think its my auto decomp, I mean it releases compression, you can feel the air come out where the header pipe connects and you can see the valve moves. im just really lost at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also cant find a place to test my starter. and I don't really have the money to buy a new starter. and with the plug out it spins faster but still not fast enough. I can turn it over by hand and it feels fine. we tried a different starter from a ltr and same results.
 

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How are you checking the idler gear? Check to make sure you have the proper washers (both location and amount) on the idler gear. It's a basic gear design which is merely a connection between the starter and the flywheel/clutch gear. If it's binding, it's either the wrong washer configuration or the bushing(s) which support each side of the idler gear assembly are worn out.

If it turns over slow it sounds like an electrical issue. Check ALL the starter circuit connections from the battery, thru the relay wiring area, and to the starter. I'm going to take your word about the starter but I had this EXACT condition, even though the starter components measured within spec, and it was still bad.
 

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you check the dm with a compression gauge. Anything over 125-130 psi it will start to effect the starting
 

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I've heard that using sealant instead of a gasket can cause the magneto/flywheel to rub the case. So that's probably your problem. My problem was the decomp lever but it wasnt binding, it was just cranking slow. Pull your spark plug and see if it still is binding.
This IS the problem, the gasket provides proper clearance for the gears. I know this first hand from experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its not the gear connected straight to the starter its the one after that. and with the cover off it turns over perfectly fine. and that's why I believe it clearance issues. we did a drop test and everything was good. but I haven't heard of an issue like this before and that's why it just doesn't make any damn sense to me.
 

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If you aren't using a gasket I guarantee that is your issue. I have been through this before myself. Put on a new gasket and your problems will go away.
 

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Is it not starting because of how slow it's turning over? Or because of something else?
 

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let us know if the gasket works. it would be a easy and cheap fix. from what your symptoms are and the fact that it turns over normally when the side cover is off. and since it still drags a little with the plug out, makes me think it is definately the gasket issue and not a decomp issue. the gasket is close to 1/16'' thick and gasket sealant can squeeze out and leave almost nothing in between the case and cover.
 
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