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Discussion Starter #1
Im new to the whole fi quad thing. I just bought an 07 lr450 that supposedly just needed the valves adjusted. Barely started. Got it home and won't start. Took tank and everything off. Pulled valve cover off and checked the clearances and they are good and the cams are set correctly. Pulled plug out and cranked and it's got a blue spark while cranking so I put it back in. Fuel pump is getting about 12volts to it for around 3 second when u first turn key on but then nothing while cranking. But when I hook the wires up to the pump it doesnt turn on at all. There was a little insulation missing on the ground wire of the pump at the connection so I grounded that to frame and turned key on and pump came on. I checked the throttle position sensor and the numbers were good 1.6 shut and like 5.2 open. When I had throttle body off I turned key and the fuel injector shot a good looking mist for a split second so I assume that is working fine. Put throttle body on and sprayed starter fluid into inlet while cranking and nothing. There is a decent amount of oil in the air box I don't know what that's due to. I cranked it with the valve cover off and sprayed starting fluid in inlet and noticed when I did this it appeared to fog out through kinda by where the timing chain runs. Stop spraying and it stops fogging a few seconds later and when you start spraying it starts fogging out again. Then I hooked tank back up and primed the pump and lines by jumping pump with another battery. And cranked with quarter throttle and I got it to run. It was choppy and wouldn't idle but it was better than nothing. So I put the valve cover on and hooked everything back up and it won't start. At a quarter throttle while cranking it will speed up like its trying to catch but wont. I just got another stock Cdi and plugged it in and it still won't start. It seems to have decent compression. I have no idea what to do from here. Any help would be great.
 

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First off, stop using ether on it.

Oil in the air box sounds like bad rings. Do a leak down or compression test on it.
 

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If it starts on ether you have a fuel issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And how would I go about finding why the pump won't run while cranking. That's why I changed the brain but it didn't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Retimed cams by eye which gave me 14 pins and it started to run. Started adjusting tps and it started to run better but I couldn't turn it back far enough to get it to run completely right. Installed new throttle body with new injector and tps and now it won't start again. Installed my original injector and still nothing. This is horrible.
 

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Retimed cams by eye which gave me 14 pins and it started to run. Started adjusting tps and it started to run better but I couldn't turn it back far enough to get it to run completely right. Installed new throttle body with new injector and tps and now it won't start again. Installed my original injector and still nothing. This is horrible.
14 pins from timing mark of exhaust cam to timing on intake cam?
 

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it should be 15 pins between cam top mark. It's perfect when the exhaust cam notch/mark ends up on the second pin of the link before it so that you start counting 2 pins on the first link. That will put you on the first pin on the intake cam 15 pins away. Clint is right is .58 - .62 volts. At wide open throttle I usually get around 3.7 v
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've already had cams set at 15 pins and it would hardly run at all. Took cams out in hopes that they spun and compared to a buddys good cames and theyr identical. So I reinstalled and for the hell of it did it by sight which came out to 14 pins and it started to run like that. Maybe chain stretch? Idk I've never had this happen on any of my other toys and I've built them all.
 

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I know with YFZ's if you change the timing a certain way (i think it was exhaust) you can achieve more power. I am not sure if the LTR can do the same thing. Which cam did you retard or progress? Maybe blueranger the cam wizard will chime in, he changes the timing on the hot cams to make more power. I think you have a different issue than your timing and you might have masked it a bit by changing the timing.
 

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yep, on the LTR you can advance the exhaust cam ( I thinks 6 degrees) to gain a bit more. Or rather move it around. I paid williams to do that to mine. It lasted a few hours before I spun the cam tho :-(
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay I looked at the wiring diagram and checked all the wires and the only thing I found wrong was the fuel pump connector was routed to the injector and the injector was routed to the pump. So I fixed that and the upmp now runs like it should and injector sprays on every stroke. But it won't even try to start now. I reset cams to 15 pins and checked that the plug had a blue spark and it did. But still won't start. I pulled flywheel to make sure the key was in it and everything under the side cover looked happy and it did. I'm lost again.
 

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How in the hell do you have spark and fuel but it wont fire? im confused too
 

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How in the hell do you have spark and fuel but it wont fire? im confused too
Not enough compression...
I should have thought of that, my wheeler had spark and fuel but wouldn't start...turns out my cylinder and piston were all scarred up.

Have you checked the cylinder and piston yet?
 
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