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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i figured id stop bombing other posts with my nonsesnse and start a new topic on my favorite engine components, cams and heads. Not to leave the piston out of the party......


Speaking again With Mr.Crower, he took the time to really explain some neat things and run down my options with me. Apparently i was under the impression id want a longer duration cam with the hi velocity porting Venom/KBR did for me. It is the opposite. You need less open valve time due to the HV porting. It will fill faster thus preventing unecessary pumping loss due to a long duration camshaft. Higher lift will actually due better in this situation.

As i stated in another thread, the OEM stock LTR450 intake cam has only .331 or so lift and like 235 duration at .50 so LOTS of room for improvement. Stock lift on the dirtbike brethren is .381 so that initself is a big step. Hate the fact that dirtbike motors get better parts <_<

So im looking in around the .400 or so mark on intake lift and we are going to improve on the exhaust cam as well.

Dan Crower has been nothing but great and i thank him for what he has done so far. He said he actually made Yoshimura their cam that they currently sell. I like this guy :D

This build might actually take out my Honda. Burn it down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Burn it down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I'm not sure exactly why, but this statement made be bust out laughing :lol: I'm sure it has to due with a combination of things that include how much love, sweat, money and time you have in that Honda. That is just great!

These are the type of topics I love here. Great info. And I wasn't aware of when lift vs. duration was more important. Pretty cool info there. Do you have the exhaust specs?
 

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This build might actually take out my Honda. Burn it down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/b]
You truly are the king B)

I ask this with total respect, but would you be willing to write us up a thread with info discussing the different cam measurements (lift & duration) you guys have found for the above named cams for the "important information" forum if you have any extra time laying around?

I'm sure everyone would appreciate it immensely
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ewwwww! I can't wait to here how these cams work out. So how far out would you estimate in having it all put together?
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Man Al, i been saying it will be together in 2-3 weeks for 3-4 months, no kidding :rolleyes:

Thing is, i feel Crower racing isnt B.S.ing me and i really do feel like it will be 2-3 weeks. Im really very hopeful. I expect pleasant things from that bike. You know i will totally keep you and everyone else tuned in. After all, you do an awsome job keeping us up on the fuel injection stuff, ill do my best on the engine internals ;)


I'm not sure exactly why, but this statement made be bust out laughing :lol: I'm sure it has to due with a combination of things that include how much love, sweat, money and time you have in that Honda. That is just great!

These are the type of topics I love here. Great info. And I wasn't aware of when lift vs. duration was more important. Pretty cool info there. Do you have the exhaust specs?
[/b]

THX Clone. My brother used to shout that ("burn it down") when we were about to do something dareing. The honda makes ALOT of power for a stock bore (currently me favorite setup) Be cool if the Zook takes it down. All ill do is go back to the drawing board on the Honda. The Honda is running about 15:1 compression with 20 a gallon fuel (mr9), has a nice port, and a WAY retarded hotcam stage 2. HammerHead piston as well. It makes big bore torque i tell you.

Sorry no exhaust specs. Sounds like the dirtbike exhaust cam might due. In the next weeks or so i will pass along any info regarding that.

You truly are the king B)

I ask this with total respect, but would you be willing to write us up a thread with info discussing the different cam measurements (lift & duration) you guys have found for the above named cams for the "important information" forum if you have any extra time laying around?

I'm sure everyone would appreciate it immensely
[/b]

Sure, not a problem. Im not sure im best suited to do that but id give a try. Really not enough info to make a tech thread out of it yet but soon there will be. I didnt realize how long it takes for companies to come up with certain performance parts like cams. Seems like we've been waiting for years, or at least i have anyway. I will keep this in the back of my mind and when the time is ready ill come see you MXQuadRacer. We can put together some good useful info B)
 

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Sounds good...when it comes time to seal that baby up, I'm sure you'll have enough information to make a solid thread
 

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Guys been reading an awful lot of your posts here and find it very cool. Im new to the EFI world as most of us are with our new toys. I am thinking about doing a few simple bolt ons and tuning mods . I am looking for a little more low end grunt as I race motocross and do alot of practice track riding. So what I need to know is this.

What do you guys recommend as far as simple semi inexpensive bolt ons? I was considering going with a cam , slip on, or full system and then getting either a power commander or Fimak . I currently have the C-Bomb on my bike with the baffle out and airbox drilled not removed.

Suggestions guys? Will I nned to Fimak/Pcomm. if I do these things ? Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys !!!

Jason NEATV-MX
 

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Here are the specs of the Yoshi Super Moto RMZ cams. :D

Here are the yoshi super moto RMZ cam specs.
 

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Guys been reading an awful lot of your posts here and find it very cool. Im new to the EFI world as most of us are with our new toys. I am thinking about doing a few simple bolt ons and tuning mods . I am looking for a little more low end grunt as I race motocross and do alot of practice track riding. So what I need to know is this.

What do you guys recommend as far as simple semi inexpensive bolt ons? I was considering going with a cam , slip on, or full system and then getting either a power commander or Fimak . I currently have the C-Bomb on my bike with the baffle out and airbox drilled not removed.

Suggestions guys? Will I nned to Fimak/Pcomm. if I do these things ? Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys !!!

Jason NEATV-MX
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Jason,

You should delete this post and start a new thread with this question or do a search ........ Pull the air box lid, add a cherry bomb, and Full HMF or DASA pipe. These seem to be the best two pipes tested. You will be fine with just the cherry bomb. It is suspected the PIM will make more HP, but this has not be verified yet on a dyno. Adding a full exhaust will make about 3hp more then the stock system with the baffle pulled.



FUELATV
 

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Thing is, i feel Crower racing isnt B.S.ing me B)
[/b]

Hey King, I'm not sure if you read my cam post on .org, but Dan Crower is a legit guy and I enjoyed talking with him about the custom TRX cam he made for me. Very knowedgeable guy and he answers pretty much all the questions you throw at him. However, he is dumbfounded with the results I got from my testing where the HC2 edged out his custom grind TRX/CRF cam. But since the Zook is so new and cam choices so limited, I'm sure the stuff Crower does for you will be some of the best stuff out for the LTR...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Vader, that was one hell of a good write up! Thanks for letting me know that was there. Surprised i haven been in there looking in a while.

Tell you what to, i absolutly was thinking of scooping up a Honda Gen2 cam. You just saved me alot of loot brother. Cheers for that. Its a good cam no question, but i too love the Stage 2 and you just gave me reason to leave it in there. It runs sooooooooooo damn good in there.

Not a knock to Crower but when Hotcams comes out with a set for the LTR i will definetly be trying them. Do some dyno time between the two cam sets.

Great stuff, thanks again ;)
 

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Has anyone even heard any LTR grublings from Hot Cams?
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I called and talked to a rep a month or so ago and the best the jerk would tell me is to just keep watching their website to see when they are released :angry:
 

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Sorry about the earlier post my attachment did not work but here is the info the yoshi RMZ Super Moto cams ST-R specs are as follows INTAKE=10mm(.394") lift 250 deg duration EXAUST=8.8mm(.346")lift 256 deg duration.

I forgot when I was getting ready to do this Junkie talked to Dan at DASA and Dan said that if I was not going to do a high compression piston I should do the exaust cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry about the earlier post my attachment did not work but here is the info the yoshi RMZ Super Moto cams ST-R specs are as follows INTAKE=10mm(.394") lift 250 deg duration EXAUST=8.8mm(.346")lift 256 deg duration.

I forgot when I was getting ready to do this Junkie talked to Dan at DASA and Dan said that if I was not going to do a high compression piston I should do the exaust cam.
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I wish i knew why in the world you wouldnt put a higher lift, more aggressive exhaust cam in just because you have higher compression. That just doesnt make sense to me. I know if i paid for a cam id sure as hell try it out.

Now that cam you have Varmit, that is THE exact cam the Dan Crower made for Yoshimura actually. I believe that is the very same cam that will be going in my bike. Duration is 252 @ .050

So you say it made a tremendous difference huh?? I asked him to press my gears on so all i have to do is chuck them in, shim um up, and be done. I still need to make a phone call to CP pistons to ask them if their 13.75 piston accepts a .400 lift cam. If i can find out that way it sure beats clay checking.
 

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I did use the intake and exaust cam and yes they made a big difference sat at glamis I was trying a new map that was to rich and was killing power but when I got back I leaned it up and it feels read good now. Those cams do come with valve spring shims I did not use them and have not floated my valves, those shims were intended for use with the RMZ and I checked and the springs in my head and they were above max height and tension so I dont recomended using them also I set my valve lash to LTR specs not the RMZ specs listed with the cams, since installing I have checked the lash once a week and have not had to re shim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did use the intake and exaust cam and yes they made a big difference sat at glamis I was trying a new map that was to rich and was killing power but when I got back I leaned it up and it feels read good now. Those cams do come with valve spring shims I did not use them and have not floated my valves, those shims were intended for use with the RMZ and I checked and the springs in my head and they were above max height and tension so I dont recomended using them also I set my valve lash to LTR specs not the RMZ specs listed with the cams, since installing I have checked the lash once a week and have not had to re shim.
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Very nice info! That will definetly come in handy real soon for me, thanks varmint.
 

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Ok possible great news I made a contact today that can get exact info on where yoshi degrees Doug Gusts cams he said he will get me the info tommarow and I am hoping more, I do not want to give up his name and get him in trouble so please dont ask besides it wont matter because once I have it I will degree mine to those specs and if all is good I will build a fixture we can pass around to press sprockets on to those specs. I hope this guy follows through he seemed legit and I have enough info to know he is not bullshiting if I thought he was I would not even post this, he also has exact headporting specs for Doug Gusts bike but he said he cant chance giving that up but I will work on him and keep you guys posted. ;)
 
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