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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not gonna lie, never done it before...

Any tips or tricks? I have the Venom 13.75:1...I've done all the other work on the bike myself(head, cams, bolt ons) and plenty on my old 5L mustang(heads,cam, intake, nitrous etc etc) so Im relatively decent with tools, just wanna make sure I dont have to do it twice :eek: :lol:

Appreciate any help in advance
 

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Make sure you check the end gap on the rings before you install them. Many people just install them and this can cause problems if the gap is too tight.

I like to buy mine oversize and size them myself for the smallest allowable gap (gives the best seal with the least blow by)
 

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Not gonna lie, never done it before...

Any tips or tricks? I have the Venom 13.75:1...I've done all the other work on the bike myself(head, cams, bolt ons) and plenty on my old 5L mustang(heads,cam, intake, nitrous etc etc) so Im relatively decent with tools, just wanna make sure I dont have to do it twice :eek: :lol:

Appreciate any help in advance
[/b]

Couple quick hints...

After you remove the cylinder, place some clean rags around the crank so nothing falls in there, like say a circlip.

Put one circlip in the piston off the bike on the side thats hardest to get to on the bike and then install the second one when the piston is on the rod on the bike.

Make sure piston is in the proper direction (intake valve pockets are always bigger)

Donot over oil the rings and cylinder. Just a little film will due.

Piston rings that have any kind of number or letter on them, face that side up.

As Al said, check your ring end gap. Mine was pretty much spot on (same piston) but its good to make sure. Looking for around .015 oil ring and .012-.018 compression. Wouldnt go below .012 and would go above .018 on the compression rings and donot go below .015 on the oil rings.

New gaskets....not worth reusing.

Always pay attention to how things come off. It sometimes helps to snap a few pics of things for future referance if needed.

To break it in, start it, idle it while blipping the throttle till it warms up. Shut it down and let it completly cool. Start it again, completly warm it up, take it out and ride it cautiously for say 5-10 mins then blast on it. Not to overly rev it but accelerat hard AND decelerate hard. Do that for a little while and your done. NO synthetic oil while doing this. After a tank or two of fuel, switch over to a Moly blended synthetic oil. Change oil filter and whamo :scoot:

Goodluck Bryan!

Manual for proper torque settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Couple quick hints...

After you remove the cylinder, place some clean rags around the crank so nothing falls in there, like say a circlip.

Put one circlip in the piston off the bike on the side thats hardest to get to on the bike and then install the second one when the piston is on the rod on the bike.

Make sure piston is in the proper direction (intake valve pockets are always bigger)

Donot over oil the rings and cylinder. Just a little film will due.

Piston rings that have any kind of number or letter on them, face that side up.

As Al said, check your ring end gap. Mine was pretty much spot on (same piston) but its good to make sure. Looking for around .015 oil ring and .012-.018 compression. Wouldnt go below .012 and would go above .018 on the compression rings and donot go below .015 on the oil rings.

New gaskets....not worth reusing.

Always pay attention to how things come off. It sometimes helps to snap a few pics of things for future referance if needed.

To break it in, start it, idle it while blipping the throttle till it warms up. Shut it down and let it completly cool. Start it again, completly warm it up, take it out and ride it cautiously for say 5-10 mins then blast on it. Not to overly rev it but accelerat hard AND decelerate hard. Do that for a little while and your done. NO synthetic oil while doing this. After a tank or two of fuel, switch over to a Moly blended synthetic oil. Change oil filter and whamo :scoot:

Goodluck Bryan!

Manual for proper torque settings.
[/b]
Nice...Are you guys using a ring compressor? Or just sliding them into the cylinder? Ive seen it done both way in Mustangs but I've never seen it done in a 450...

Appreciate the help!!! :)
 

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I like to slide the piston into the cylinder while it is still on the bench. That way I KNOW I didn't bend an oil ring. I can see everything. Push the piston as far into the bore as you can while still being able to stick the wrist pin through. The rings are easily compressible with fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks fella's...appreciate the help.

My head is getting ported and I sent my cams to DASA to re-grind...so hopefully this bucket will scare a few of my buddies with YFZ's at Banshee wars in a few weeks :)
 

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What's a barre?
 

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when the bolt breaks or the threads strip then you obviously know you went too tight.

barre??
 
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