[djvolume]

Taking off the stem... I stripped the 5mm hex bolt.
First, whomever assembled my quad was VERY loc-tite happy -- every bolt I have messed with is "super glued" on.
I bought a "spin-it-out" set by Power "something" -- Supposed to grab....... useless.

Looking for a good "easy-out" -- any suggestions

 

[AL Elks]

Taking off the stem... I stripped the 5mm hex bolt.
First, whomever assembled my quad was VERY loc-tite happy -- every bolt I have messed with is "super glued" on.
I bought a "spin-it-out" set by Power "something" -- Supposed to grab....... useless.

Looking for a good "easy-out" -- any suggestions
[/b]

Helli-col is what you need! Here's a write up I did when I had to use it on one of my cam journals:

http://www.postnetlnc.com/Z400/TechTips/Tech01/techtip01.htm

 

[djvolume]

AL ------ SORRY -- let me clarify- The head of the bolt is stripped... bolt is still in.
I need to get it out.

 

[hinkle]

is that powersomething have like 5 spirald blades on the inside to grab the head of the bolt? snap on makes them and so does craftsman, ive been able to get shit loads of striped things with them out.

 

[AL Elks]

Gotcha!

I havent looked at that particular bolt. Can you get a set of vice grips on it? If not you can either try an easyout or as a last ditch you could have a welder tack weld another bolt or an allen wrench to it and take it out that way.

Just a few thoughts.

Another thought is go get a dremel if you can get to it and cut a slot in it.

 

[fatv]

Someone should sticky this. It is a problem on all bikes. The allen head on EVERY LTR i have seen is LOOSE fitting. You MUST have a good allen key, and be very careful. Best fix is to tack a 12mm headed screw to the head of the stripped allen. You are about the 10th person i have heard having this problem.


FUELATV

 

[djvolume]

Someone should sticky this. It is a problem on all bikes. The allen head on EVERY LTR i have seen is LOOSE fitting. You MUST have a good allen key, and be very careful. Best fix is to tack a 12mm headed screw to the head of the stripped allen. You are about the 10th person i have heard having this problem.
FUELATV
[/b]

Steve -- I just PM'd you on this -- you were quicker than me.

Gotcha!

I havent looked at that particular bolt. Can you get a set of vice grips on it? If not you can either try an easyout or as a last ditch you could have a welder tack weld another bolt or an allen wrench to it and take it out that way.

Just a few thoughts.

Another thought is go get a dremel if you can get to it and cut a slot in it.
[/b]

AL ...... NO WAY to get vice grips on it. What easyout have you had good luck with ?

YES... it is like the reverse "blade" type -- that thing just sits there and laughs.

STEVE... for sure -- if you get a core in before I get this to you -- PM me and make it mine --

 

[AL Elks]

First generation easy outs I had no luck at all. Sears now carrys some decent ones though. Sounds like the only viable option is to weld another bolt on there and then take it out.

EDIT: One other thought and I've never tried this is to get some of the putty type epoxy and drop some in the hole of the bolt, put in the allen wrench and then wrap some of the putty around the allen wrench and bolt and let it cure overnight. It might just take it out?

Just another thought.

 

[djvolume]

JB weld --- ??????

HUH -- never thought of that -- I may just try that for the hell of it.

 

[fatv]

GREAT IDEA ..... but make sure the allen key can spin all the way around. Once you JB weld it in there no going back. Maybe JB weld it in long ways. Then use vise grips to turn it?


FUELATV

 

[djvolume]

We KNOW welding will work -- so worst case I will do that. Also, since it goes all the way through the other side -- that's another saftey net.
In order for me to do it with a weld --- as MOST other guys --- I would have to load the half disassembled quad up. So, I am going to try a few other things first. I went by this morning and returned that "spin-out" crap -- it would probably work great for a stripped screw in wood --- but not for us. I bought two other types. The traditional "easy-out" and some that look like a socket w/ reverse blades on the inside.
Gonna try then I'll post my findings.

Thanks AL for the suggestions. Steve thanks for hooking me up quickly.

Stacy

 

[djvolume]

WELL ..... nothing worked.

*spin-out -- just spun out

**the socket-type w/ reverse blades on the inside -- I had high hopes for these -- did not do the trick -- ended up stripping the inside of the tool/blades

***The traditional "easy-out" -- I drilled in -- as deep as i could safely go -- then the easy out just would not catch.

Now -- the center is circular--large -- with a drill hole going a couple of mm in to the bolt.
It's gotta be weak now. The JB weld thing is still a possibility -- just worried about getting on the cast part -- wouldn't be good.

I have never had such trouble with a damn bolt. I guess I will have to load it up and take it somewhere.

FUEL -- come to NC and fix it for me.

 

[fatv]

I wish i could ..... Gonna have to weld a bolt on the end. That will work. PAIN IN THE AZZ......


FUELATV

 

[AL Elks]

Is it possible to take a grinding wheel on a dremel tool and grind the head off the bolt. Sounds like there may not be enough room though. I've got to take a look at mine and see exactly which bolt you are referring to.

 

[djvolume]

Is it possible to take a grinding wheel on a dremel tool and grind the head off the bolt. Sounds like there may not be enough room though. I've got to take a look at mine and see exactly which bolt you are referring to.
[/b]

AL.... look down at the bottom of the stem. It is the 5mm allen head --squeezing the cast bottom piece that attaches to the tie-rods.

getting to it is a pain in the ass, as it is.... on top of that... the cast has a little lip.

BUT -- ANY suggestions are always welcome.
I think I am probably gonna throw it in the truck this evening and take it to the shop. Let it be someone elses bitch.

 

[djvolume]

Dropped it off at the shop last night... told me he'll get it -- Probably Fri.
So....... whenever I get it back -- hopefully fri/sat. -- I'll send it to you Steve.
I'll PM you to let you know for sure.

I would REALLY like to get the shocks revalved in this "down-time". So, any suggestions there let me know.
I have been trying to wait for TCS -- I am going to check mxtech(thanks jfarrar).

I did see on a post that FUEL is going to carry TCS -- do you know where they are on conversions ??

THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS GUYS ---
Stacy

 

[fatv]

Right now i-shock has the best deal going IMO. The stock shock springs are progressive and will work very good once the shocks are valved for your weight, ridding style, ect. and for $300.00 you cannot go wrong. TCS does great work and i am now selling their shocks. I am not too sure where they are with re-valving on the LRT though.


FUELATV

 

[djvolume]

Right now i-shock has the best deal going IMO. The stock shock springs are progressive and will work very good once the shocks are valved for your weight, ridding style, ect. and for $300.00 you cannot go wrong. TCS does great work and i am now selling their shocks. I am not too sure where they are with re-valving on the LRT though.
FUELATV
[/b]

I totally agree -- I think proggressive springs are the next thing. These shocks are quality.
All the adjustments you need. NO NEED to buy shocks -- unless you are going LT or changing technology --Floats. Just needs valving and a little more travel BAD.

 

[fatv]

The i-shock re-valve will add an inch of travel i think. I agree i think all aftermarket shock companys will be going to progressive springs soon. If not the should.


FUELATV

 

[djvolume]

FIXED THE PROBLEM


Took it to my shop guy. He pulled the shock off and put the quad on it's side.... to get to it easier. Used a punch -- angled on the outside edge of the flange part of the bolt. Knocked it loose from the loc-tite. Then an easy-out one size larger. Bam... no prob.

Thanks for the help ---
stacy



Let's lock this