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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hate to bring up this topic once again, especially since so many people have very stern opinions about it but here goes.
I was very worried about tapping a Pro Design N/O kill switch into the white wire on the left side of the bike since 1/2 of the people here say its evil to do that to the electronics, and the other half state no problem, so I found an old Quad magazine and on their project LTR they tapped it into the tip over switch instead. Needless to say, it didnt require any extra wiring since the tip switch is located right by the bars, and went in VERY EASY. Anyone interested in doing this as well, all you do is remove the front plastic lid, behind the aluminium plate that the electronics are mounted to you will find the tip switch, tap into the RED wire going into said switch, ground the other wire from the Kill switch to any of the numerous bolts on the frame, and bam, you are done. Correct me if I am wrong, but this should only be tripping the tip switch, and not grounding the coil pulse into the frame?
 

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That was 'Dirtwheels'
If anyone has a manual with the diagram in it you'll probably find that it is in series with either the coil wire or the stator wire or maybe even its own input back to the CPU (more probable).
Who has the diagram ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To me, it doesnt seem like the tip switch would be in line with the coil pulse, seems like it would definately be on its own circuit and safer than dumping the coil wire into the frame???
 

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Someone must have the workshop manual by now ??
 

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That was 'Dirtwheels'
If anyone has a manual with the diagram in it you'll probably find that it is in series with either the coil wire or the stator wire or maybe even its own input back to the CPU (more probable).
Who has the diagram ?
[/b]
tlroony is correct...I'm looking at the wiring diagram and the TP sensor, TO sensor and the IAP are all wired in parallel back to the ECM on both the power and ground wires. It appears that all 3 have seperate "trip" wires going back to the ECM as well...so I'm thinking any signal from the said "trip" wires will signal the ECM that something is wrong...

Here's the kicker though...if you use that N/O switch then you will be closing the power circuit (Red) to ground (blot on bike)...and that red power wire is directly off the ECM...THATS ballsy...again, now your opening that whole N/O versus N/C debate...

SO here's my final thought on that issue? Ask yourself "Do I turn ANYTHING in my house off by grounding it out?"...anything?....how about your car?...no?...hmmmm...makes ya wonder... :p

The day I see a United Laboratories (UL) sticker on my appliances with a KILL switch to ground? Thats the day I will buy into that whole ground out your electrical system arguement...
 

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By interupting your pulse from the stator, current will take the path of least resistance and go from the stator to the frame. There should be NO voltage coming from the ECU to the stator so the ECU will not be grounded unless the ECU is faulty. The current will not make it to the ECU so it cannot monitor voltage to the coil and should get an error. Using ground to switch states either way is common inside your electrical components in your home and shouldn't be a big concern unless you are grounding a wire that is hot from the ECU. If you are concerned about grounding this wire you should also be worried that the pulsing voltage of the stator could fry your ECU as the voltage coming off it is pretty high.
 

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I disagree with the home appliance arguement...I'm gonna need a example of a "switched state"...I was taught there was only 2 things in a circuit...a switch or a load...so either will interrupt a direct to the ground or neutral on the electrical panel. If your talking reversing the polarity of a motor? Thats not using a ground as a switching state...SOMETHING always has to interupt...otherwise bad things happen...

As far as the ECU? SO your saying the red wire is NOT high voltage?...it's just a low voltage monitoring of the system?...I can't see beyond the ladder diagram into the ECM on the service manual .pdf file...so I am unsure of where the voltage is coming out of the ECM or what voltage it is...so you may be correct on that one...

I am going to error on the side of caution and stick with the NC switch...but I can also see where your theory will work...nice thing about forums...getting someone elses view... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, in a perfect world, hopefully I will never be thrown from the bike and activate the kill switch! But I guess I am going to start looking around for a N/C so I can sleep again.
 
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