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Discussion Starter #1
07 ltr450, un molested, replacing top end with new piston, stock cylinder, hardware, cams, everything looks good now evidence of ever being over heated or something catastrophic accuring.

I am in the process of torquing the head bolts ATM...
So I noticed one of the bolts seem to set off the torque wrench, but, as I look at the head of the bolt, I see it still turns like 5-10掳 maybe 15掳...
So 馃 I check to see if the remaining 3 head bolt produce the same result, as I check each bolt the torque wrench sets off em immediately, 0 bolt flex.
So I check it again, same thing, damn bolt head rotates, torque wrench clicks, damn bolt rotates back..

ANY ONE ON HERE PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS BAD, HAPPENED BEFORE WITH NO ILL AFFECT... DO I NEED A NEW BOLT???

now I thought maybe the bolt bottomed out so I took the washer off and it turns in all the way to the bolt head with no obstructions.
I need to know I'm having problems with oil ending up in the top of the cylinder real bad..
The story on that is posted.
OIL STRAIGHT OUT THE PIPE!!!
I'm in the process of the last few things I can't wrap my head around, I've never had so many issues putting a machine back together.
I would be in you're debit if anyone can put a finger on where my problem lays...
馃馃し馃う馃槫馃馃槓馃槚馃槥馃樀馃挃
 

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07 ltr450, un molested, replacing top end with new piston, stock cylinder, hardware, cams, everything looks good now evidence of ever being over heated or something catastrophic accuring.

I am in the process of torquing the head bolts ATM...
So I noticed one of the bolts seem to set off the torque wrench, but, as I look at the head of the bolt, I see it still turns like 5-10掳 maybe 15掳...
So 馃 I check to see if the remaining 3 head bolt produce the same result, as I check each bolt the torque wrench sets off em immediately, 0 bolt flex.
So I check it again, same thing, damn bolt head rotates, torque wrench clicks, damn bolt rotates back..

ANY ONE ON HERE PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS BAD, HAPPENED BEFORE WITH NO ILL AFFECT... DO I NEED A NEW BOLT???

now I thought maybe the bolt bottomed out so I took the washer off and it turns in all the way to the bolt head with no obstructions.
I need to know I'm having problems with oil ending up in the top of the cylinder real bad..
The story on that is posted.
OIL STRAIGHT OUT THE PIPE!!!
I'm in the process of the last few things I can't wrap my head around, I've never had so many issues putting a machine back together.
I would be in you're debit if anyone can put a finger on where my problem lays...
馃馃し馃う馃槫馃馃槓馃槚馃槥馃樀馃挃
 

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Are all the washers in place? Could the bolt be bottoming out before compressing cylinder and head? Are all the bolts the same length and are they in correct position?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I just received new head bolts.
I took washer off and it went all the way home no obstructions.

NEED HELP
I just put it back together with a new head gasket and all 4 new head bolts...
Made sure all the rings are in the correct position.
The gaps were good.
The cylinder is flat.
The head is flat.
Bolts torqued to spec.
Start this thing up and all it does is burn oil I don't get it, this is by far not my first time
I'm almost positive it's pulling the oil from the gasket.
It's alot of oil it's so bad that the oil won't register after 30 seconds of run time
Add more oil and it's the same thing all over.
I didn't even put and coolent in her this time.

NO CLUE WHY SHE IS PULLING SO MUCH OIL INTO THE TOP OF THE CYLINDER.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I put it all back together and road it fairly hard up and dawn the road and and I seem to have less oil on top of the piston then before. Head bolt trq. Is still correct..
Still consuming oil.
Still smoking.
No water loss so can't be head gasket, correct?
It's gotta be the rings no seating.

13:1 wisco piston,
Rings: top checks good
Second ring has double the gap, wisco says for specific applications this is done for pressure in-between top and second ring, to keep the top ring seated...
Why so much oil consumption tho???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I've road it twice now not time riding fairly hard, no rev limiter sht, between 1/8-1/2 mile..

First ride..
case oil yield=1000ml emptied.
Oil reservoir tank was around 1/3 full, no read on dip.
Second ride...
Case oil yield=550ml emptied
Oil Reservoir tank was around 1/3 full
I removed the return oil line and started the bike real fast and the return oil flow was immediate-heavy-unobstructed...both return pumps have been changed to new at start of build,. They are properly linked to the first pump, I made sure rotor and and pump were both correct-work-rotor facing right way..

What will cause the case to fill up faster then the return tank?
 

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Sounds like your oil pump is not setup correctly if you took it apart and replaced. Might want to check oil pressure or blowby.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so what should I look for the 2 left side oil pumps are new and I made sure the shaft and the rotor on the right side was correct to ensure the shaft will turn the left side as intended..
I know for sure I'm getting blow by by the rings, the ring gaps were checked and good everything is new...
What's the best way to check oil pressure????
Would the blow by cause the crank case to hold more oil then the 400ml that should be in there??

What's the most oil anyone has drained out the case that would be considered ok????

One time I got 1000ml
Second time maybe a mile of ride I got 550ml
Third time maybe 4 miles of ride I got 600ml
Still smoking, and this oil issue, but it seems to run good maybe a little fat but not so fat that I feel the smoke may be fuel, and the fact the oil drains out burntish.
Running rotella oil non synthetic, on the 3rd head gasket..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did pull the return oil line off and started the bike just for a quick second and had oil instantly everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The oil runs down from the top end correct?
So it is s'pose to mix with the 400ml correct?

Does the oil get pumped to the trans or thru it and maybe something is restricting the oil from making its round and overflowing the case?

But that still leaves me with why won't the rings seat I triple checked the ring position and started with a very light deglazing they didn't seat so I did a slightly more aggressive hone with the same result...

I've never had to tare a motor back down because of the rings or cylinder and I've done some thing to a 2 stroke cylinder that should have caused me problems and didn't.
 

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Could be that you installed one of the pumps backwards which wouldn't return the oil correctly to the head or oil tank. Sounds like a teardown is required since something isnt correct. Rings probably wont seat because of to much oil in the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well the last time I started it a ran it for a few minutes I did put 500ml in the case and after the run I only had 400ml when I drained it.
Is it possible to put a pump in backwards?
I know the right hand pump inner rotor can be but I made sure that was right.
But I did drain the oil again and filter change re added oil to spec and rode her around a lil and right back to the way it was.

But I agree I just msged the costumer and told him she needed to be tore down all the way..
I got the bike half put together and the guy told the bike owner he didn't know how to do any head work so it sat in a barn for 3 years and I got it now and I've put 2 new oil pumps, clutch, and 3 head gaskets now, I'm thinking I'ma order a new set of rings this time to..
Can I get away with reusing the head gasket or should I just get that to?
 

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Never reuse a head gasket. Im not sure why you replaced the oil pumps I never heard of one going bad on really any machine out there.
 
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