Ok it took me a while, but I finally got it figured out. If you look at the gear shifter, there are two sets of wires coming from the engine behind the sprocket cover. Follow them up to the frame and they will turn toward the rear of the bike. Get the one that has a blue and a white wire going into a black plug. Splice into the white wire (I had to add some wire to the kill switch to allow for enough room to turn the handle bars). Ground the other wire to the frame. I used the bolt and hole from where the head light mounting bracket was. Hope this helps, because pro armor and pro design had no clue.
Kill Switch install!
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So I cant just tap into the kill switch on the bars already like a kick start????
NO! Unless you want to change a fuse everytime you pull the cord. The new kill switches actually ground the impulse off of the coil to a ground which kills the engine. If you hook it directly to the on off switch it will cause the positive wire to contact the negative wire and blow the main fuse. This is the only way to install a pro design or pro armor kill switch.
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So I have to go through the stator like the instructions say???
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Madmatt's method will work but its not the correct way with a n/o (Pro design/Pro armor/Tusk etc) switch !
You should really find the white wire (left side under seat) and do it that way.
For a n/c switch (pingle etc) just trace the original killswitch or ignition switch wires and hook into these.
You should really find the white wire (left side under seat) and do it that way.
For a n/c switch (pingle etc) just trace the original killswitch or ignition switch wires and hook into these.
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I would never tap into a hot wire to ground it out. DYNA doesn't recommend this because it can fry CDIs. A better route is to have a kill switch that opens the connection instead of shorting it out. That way all it does is completely stop either the ground or the positive wire without shorting it out. Less can go wrong to the electrical system with a kill switch that does this.
I agree! I think that was done to reduce the chance of failures. BUT, having Pro Design as a sponsor thats always what I've used. It is just a low amperage 12v circuit that is really just going to ground anyway but w/ added resistence from your coil. I've never fried a CDI, this is how everyone I know is wiring them up and is how I was taught to do it. I'm not saying one way is better then the other cause I really don't know. Call Wayne Hinson and ask him how to wire it in.
I have wired up 20 or so kill switches on Cannondales, Z400s, and the TRX450. On the Cannondales, I always used a N/C Pingel. On the others, I tried to use the N/C kills, but some people already had a N/O kill switch. I would then wire it into the signal wire coming from the engine to the coil so that it grounds out and shuts off when activated. Usually always the white wire or black w/ white stripe. I have never had a problem with any computers or ignition systems. Not to say it cannot happen, I have just never had anything happen. The best way in my opinion would be to use the N/C type kill switch and just wire it into the existing stop switch on the handlebars. The same companies make the kill switches either way, you just have to make sure you ask for one that is normally closed when you order it.
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It is not the same wire - it is the pulse wire from the stator and it is how the manufacturers recommend you install a n/o switch on a battery powered bike.
The coil style connections that most people talk about are supposed to be used on older type magneto bikes with no battery.
If you get a n/c switch just hook into the existing ignition/killswitch.
If you get a n/o switch just hook into the pulse wire.
Most people also do the coil hook up as they are too lazy to extend the wires towards the back of the bike.
Im done on this subject !!
Installed one last night. Installed a normally open kill switch on a Z450. I extended the wires to reach down to just above the fuel pump. There is a white wire there which goes to a connector and then the wire changes to a blue with green tracer I believe after the connector. I just tapped into the white wire on one side of the switch and then grounded the other and it works great. So that is the WHITE wire just under the seat and plastic which is just above the fuel pump and zip tied to the frame.
Just my $.02 if anyone cares.
Just my $.02 if anyone cares.
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I think he means a RM-Z450... the bike! I would imagine very similar wiring to the LT-R450
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OKAY fellas!!! I just did it. I tapped into the white wire which is on the left side of the bike (if your seating on it). The wire is next to the frame above the header. Short wire. I used a line tap. Grounded it to a screw where the headlight bracket was! Works perfect for now!
I mean the new LTR-450. It actually does not matter either. The way I described will work on both machines. Wires are still white in color, just in different locations. I have never messed with the 2 wheeled machines. I just refer to the newer machine as the "Z450."
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Can somone Post a Tech Article about this? :arrow:
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