Trinity Exhaust Installation...whew...
OK...here we go. Since I put dibs on the Trinity product installation, I'm coming through with my part of the bargain. These just might be the most expensive stickers I ever wanted
#1 You have to pick a location for the module as it stays on board the bike. I picked under the seat because it's the easiest to get to for program changes.
#2 If your going to run the wires through any plastics it's going to take about a 3/4" hole. You will also need a grommet to protect the wires. So STOP now and run to your local Auto Zone and pick up one. I used this "Help" kit #80189. It's a power brake check valve kit but is does have a 3/4" rubber grommet.
Disconnecct the hot side of the battery. The instructions tell you to pull ALL the plastics.
DON'T do it unless your a glutton for punishment. If you pull these buttons and screws and then the 2 bolts that hold the tank down you will have plenty of room to work with. If you have some sadistic inclination to see what your bike will look like? E-mail me and I'll send you a pic. In the meantime put your hand in a vise and tighten it as much as you can stand and THAT will give you the feeling ya get when you try to pull the plastics on this biatch.
You will have to pull the rear plastics and drill your hole. If you look at the first picture you can get an idea of where to place the unit. Drill a 3/4" hole or use a knock out kit like I did. Run your wires through the hole you drilled and the rubber grommet.
Now run your wires beside the filter and weave them into the injector area under the fuel tank. Keep running the black ground wire all the way to the battery. I followed the ground harness and zip tyed it to that. Nice and clean. Hook that black wire up to the negative side of the battery. Your target for the other looms is that clear plastic rubber cover you see in the last picture.
I couldn't get a real good pic of the loom on top of the injector but you need to unplug it then plug it into the harness. The left over harness plug now goes into the top of the injector.
Reassemble the bike and follow the instructions for the start up. The head pipe and muffler installation were pretty straight forward but here's the pics.
And last but not least
OK...my take on the whole thing? I did not care for the fact that they advertise a anodized end cap and bracketts on their web page. HP figures notwithstanding I honestly bought it because it looked bitchen...so yea I'm a little dissappointed in that but they have told me that they are in the process of offering blue anodized so we shall see. Forgotten muffler brackets? Not real happy about that one either but they made good and sent them right out. Vague instructions...they really need to have some pictures like the ones above.
Does the above amount to a hill of beans?...nahh...it still works well and the quality is there in the product. Yes it was pricey but thats what happens when you want to be the first on your block. The prices will come down. As far as start and check? Yes the bike will die. You need to lean it down to #2 green light setting. I talked to JD at Trinity and he seems to think the over lying problem is the CRBM installed first. Everyone that has a CRBM has the same problem. Big deal. The dissappearing RPM's? Trinity is working on some plug and play stuff for that to be released soon. The big thing here was to get the fuel to the bike like you need, so I'm ok with that for now. You need to watch the lights and the colors of the lights as you dial it in. Don't get all tied up in counting how many times you push the "Mode" button...just watch the colors of the lights and you pretty much can't go wrong. Nice touch to the "Lean to Rich" mixture buttons. Lots of adjustment there so it looks good.
The good?...well made. Bling factor of 9.95 :idea: The pipe is really nasty sounding...I mean this thing CACKLES now...I'm pretty happy with it so far and I will let ya know how it does after we take it out Sunday with Fuel and his boy Pokr