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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trinity Exhaust Installation...whew...

OK...here we go. Since I put dibs on the Trinity product installation, I'm coming through with my part of the bargain. These just might be the most expensive stickers I ever wanted :(

#1 You have to pick a location for the module as it stays on board the bike. I picked under the seat because it's the easiest to get to for program changes.



#2 If your going to run the wires through any plastics it's going to take about a 3/4" hole. You will also need a grommet to protect the wires. So STOP now and run to your local Auto Zone and pick up one. I used this "Help" kit #80189. It's a power brake check valve kit but is does have a 3/4" rubber grommet.



Disconnecct the hot side of the battery. The instructions tell you to pull ALL the plastics. :( DON'T do it unless your a glutton for punishment. If you pull these buttons and screws and then the 2 bolts that hold the tank down you will have plenty of room to work with. If you have some sadistic inclination to see what your bike will look like? E-mail me and I'll send you a pic. In the meantime put your hand in a vise and tighten it as much as you can stand and THAT will give you the feeling ya get when you try to pull the plastics on this biatch.







You will have to pull the rear plastics and drill your hole. If you look at the first picture you can get an idea of where to place the unit. Drill a 3/4" hole or use a knock out kit like I did. Run your wires through the hole you drilled and the rubber grommet.



Now run your wires beside the filter and weave them into the injector area under the fuel tank. Keep running the black ground wire all the way to the battery. I followed the ground harness and zip tyed it to that. Nice and clean. Hook that black wire up to the negative side of the battery. Your target for the other looms is that clear plastic rubber cover you see in the last picture.





I couldn't get a real good pic of the loom on top of the injector but you need to unplug it then plug it into the harness. The left over harness plug now goes into the top of the injector.



Reassemble the bike and follow the instructions for the start up. The head pipe and muffler installation were pretty straight forward but here's the pics.














And last but not least




OK...my take on the whole thing? I did not care for the fact that they advertise a anodized end cap and bracketts on their web page. HP figures notwithstanding I honestly bought it because it looked bitchen...so yea I'm a little dissappointed in that but they have told me that they are in the process of offering blue anodized so we shall see. Forgotten muffler brackets? Not real happy about that one either but they made good and sent them right out. Vague instructions...they really need to have some pictures like the ones above.

Does the above amount to a hill of beans?...nahh...it still works well and the quality is there in the product. Yes it was pricey but thats what happens when you want to be the first on your block. The prices will come down. As far as start and check? Yes the bike will die. You need to lean it down to #2 green light setting. I talked to JD at Trinity and he seems to think the over lying problem is the CRBM installed first. Everyone that has a CRBM has the same problem. Big deal. The dissappearing RPM's? Trinity is working on some plug and play stuff for that to be released soon. The big thing here was to get the fuel to the bike like you need, so I'm ok with that for now. You need to watch the lights and the colors of the lights as you dial it in. Don't get all tied up in counting how many times you push the "Mode" button...just watch the colors of the lights and you pretty much can't go wrong. Nice touch to the "Lean to Rich" mixture buttons. Lots of adjustment there so it looks good.

The good?...well made. Bling factor of 9.95 :idea: The pipe is really nasty sounding...I mean this thing CACKLES now...I'm pretty happy with it so far and I will let ya know how it does after we take it out Sunday with Fuel and his boy Pokr
 

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Awesome write-up, great contribution for the members! :)

I'll make sure Taylor sees this, I know he was getting a bit low on stickers but I have a few I can send out too if need be. No worries :D
 

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That looks like alot of work, plus the header doesn't fit the shield like the stock, but anyways how does the pipe sound, and what power does it give, bottom, mid ?
 

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Ahhh crap no blue anodized end crap!!!! If I were you, I would box it back up(with instructions) and put that pipe and header in the trash! j/k

Seriously, it looks sweet man! Is that header bigger than the stock, looks bigger in the pic? We need some vid so we can see and hear that thing in action! Oh yeah, what did they give you for an air filter? I've never seen green before.
 

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that looks sweet.only thing would change is running the wires through the hole.it makes it impossible to remove the rear fenders without un hooking the wiring.just a racers point of view we need things quick and simple.i ran mine next to the airbox then up over the plastic and mounted it where you mounted your unit.took off the sharp edges on the plastic and it is fine.i dont see what the crbm has anything to do with there controller other than if you have one and have ran it and then take it off and go to this you realize that you just took a step in the wrong direction.when you remove the crbm everything returns to the stock settings.i hope they figure something out fo there sake but they wil have to reconfigure the whole system to do so if they plan on tapping into the other map.how doesthe pipe sund?is it loud?hows the power?
 

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Well if anyone knows HMF engineering or any other company well tell them my quad is available for testing parts. Just trying to help out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK...let me try to answer everyone's questions to the best of my ability.
#1. Sound?...This thing sounds awesome...the bike doesn't scream...it cackles! SO yes...I really like the sound...it reaches out and grabs ya by the nads and tells ya "Show me something".
#2 Yes you have a point about running them so you could take off the rear fenders. I was seriously thinking about clipping the wires and using a couple of quick connects BUT I didn't want Trinity coming back and saying that there was some kind of voltage drop across the connections and that was causing some problems. There is planty of slack for us non racers. Thats a very good point though.
#3 The heat shield fits exactly like the stock one. It's the angle of the camera honestly. BUT...there IS a stock heat shield on the back side of the stock head pipe. It looks like it's protecting the shock res and the starter and this setup does not have it. I would be curious to know if any of the other brands out there have a secondary heat shield. Let me know.
#4 The head pipe and muffler only took me about 40 minutes. The fuel module could be done in about 1hr if you follow my instructions. Cheap time if you ask me...plus it educated me on how the bike is put together.
#5 Power?...Seemed to be bottom and mid. I couldn't wait so I took it out today (Sat) and ran it around for about 5 hours. I did not adjust anything until the ride back because I wanted to just enjoy the ride. I will give you some more definate answers after Sunday.
#6 The Power Flow air filter kit still is not in as of Friday. The filter you see is the stock one with some blue goo that I use for foam filters.

And lastly...NW if you look real hard I left some cardboard paper towel centers and some used tin foil so you can make your own pipe...should be real blingy...and if you do it right it should sound like a cowbell on nitrous :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

Because as you all know...there just isn't enough cowbell :!:
 

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Maybe i should show my custom pipe that i made for 3-D art. It's basicly is newspaper covered in plaster with HMF end cap design and candy red paint. Also i made nerf bars for that same class, as soon as i get my projects back i'll snapshot each of them and put them up on here.
 

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Videos. please. Also i saw on the header that there ws the holes for heat sheild. does the stocker fit. if not did you et a new one with the full system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by benltr
u have to keep the controller installed? man the way i *shake* my quad there is no way it will stay there...
It has a velcro setup on the back side. And believe it, I have beat the hell out of my bike the last couple of days and it didn't move a bit so it's a solid set-up :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: trinity

Originally posted by ryon
what is the noise level on the trinity/ i have stock exhaust with cherry bomb airfilter kit and im @ 99db
Honestly I don't know what level. But Sunday we ran with Fuel's bike and mine was louder...sounded pretty good compared to a stock one without the pea shooter, but I wouldn't expect otherwise. Thats one of the reasons we buy them right?
 

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if you love getting tickets/ our max db is 93 thats why im asking any body has done sound checks on theirs[/b]
Most of the dunes here on the Oregon coast have a db limit of 93, but it isn't enforced as a general rule. If you do ANY riding at all, you would know that. Those that end up being sound-checked are generally screaming out of the parking lot/rev-rev-revving the crap out of their ride near the parking lot/racing back and forth in front of the parking lot....
There is a theme here if you can pick up on it.
 

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Most of the dunes here on the Oregon coast have a db limit of 93, but it isn't enforced as a general rule. If you do ANY riding at all, you would know that. Those that end up being sound-checked are generally screaming out of the parking lot/rev-rev-revving the crap out of their ride near the parking lot/racing back and forth in front of the parking lot.... There is a theme here if you can pick up on it.
[/b]
Umm....boobs?.....beer?....football?..... :rolleyes:
 

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None of those three were my thoughts initially... :mellow:
but now that you mention it! :cheers:
 
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