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Well I Finally got a chance to get out and do some tuning today so I snapped a few pictures while I was at it.
This is the setup I am using right now. It consists of the LM-1 Box, the RPM converter, the Wideband Oxygen sensor, the RPM Inductive clamp and of course I have a 12v power supply that I’m using so I don’t have to tap into the battery on the bike. The only thing not hooked up is the TPS wire. I’ll update this topic when I get it hooked up.
Here’s a picture of the whole setup:
Here’s a picture of everything hooked to the bike and all the extra wires and battery in a backpack. I tried using a very small 12v battery but it did not have enough amperage to operate the LM-1 and the Oxygen Sensor.
Here’s another picture from the side showing the RPM inductive clamp clamped to the coil wire:
Another picture from the side showing the Oxygen Sensor lead and the RPM inductive clamp lead hookups.
Now here’s a picture of how the FIMAK hooks to the bike to tune it:
Picture of the FIMAK in “Active Mode” which is real time. In other words it shows the RPM, TPS and % of fuel increase or decrease as you give it more throttle.
Picture of the FIMAK in “Diagnostic Mode”:
Picture of the FIMAK in “Manual Mode”. This is the mode used to program each point on the MAP.
Picture of the FIMAK in “Block Edit Mode”. This mode is used to change multiple ranges at once.
And here are my results after tuning for WOT and shooting for an AFR of 13.1:1. I still have just a little tweaking to do. I was hoping that 1% fuel increase would equate to a constant change in AFR but that’s not the case.
This is the setup I am using right now. It consists of the LM-1 Box, the RPM converter, the Wideband Oxygen sensor, the RPM Inductive clamp and of course I have a 12v power supply that I’m using so I don’t have to tap into the battery on the bike. The only thing not hooked up is the TPS wire. I’ll update this topic when I get it hooked up.
Here’s a picture of the whole setup:

Here’s a picture of everything hooked to the bike and all the extra wires and battery in a backpack. I tried using a very small 12v battery but it did not have enough amperage to operate the LM-1 and the Oxygen Sensor.

Here’s another picture from the side showing the RPM inductive clamp clamped to the coil wire:

Another picture from the side showing the Oxygen Sensor lead and the RPM inductive clamp lead hookups.

Now here’s a picture of how the FIMAK hooks to the bike to tune it:

Picture of the FIMAK in “Active Mode” which is real time. In other words it shows the RPM, TPS and % of fuel increase or decrease as you give it more throttle.

Picture of the FIMAK in “Diagnostic Mode”:

Picture of the FIMAK in “Manual Mode”. This is the mode used to program each point on the MAP.

Picture of the FIMAK in “Block Edit Mode”. This mode is used to change multiple ranges at once.

And here are my results after tuning for WOT and shooting for an AFR of 13.1:1. I still have just a little tweaking to do. I was hoping that 1% fuel increase would equate to a constant change in AFR but that’s not the case.
