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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I Finally got a chance to get out and do some tuning today so I snapped a few pictures while I was at it.

This is the setup I am using right now. It consists of the LM-1 Box, the RPM converter, the Wideband Oxygen sensor, the RPM Inductive clamp and of course I have a 12v power supply that I’m using so I don’t have to tap into the battery on the bike. The only thing not hooked up is the TPS wire. I’ll update this topic when I get it hooked up.

Here’s a picture of the whole setup:





Here’s a picture of everything hooked to the bike and all the extra wires and battery in a backpack. I tried using a very small 12v battery but it did not have enough amperage to operate the LM-1 and the Oxygen Sensor.





Here’s another picture from the side showing the RPM inductive clamp clamped to the coil wire:





Another picture from the side showing the Oxygen Sensor lead and the RPM inductive clamp lead hookups.





Now here’s a picture of how the FIMAK hooks to the bike to tune it:





Picture of the FIMAK in “Active Mode” which is real time. In other words it shows the RPM, TPS and % of fuel increase or decrease as you give it more throttle.





Picture of the FIMAK in “Diagnostic Mode”:





Picture of the FIMAK in “Manual Mode”. This is the mode used to program each point on the MAP.






Picture of the FIMAK in “Block Edit Mode”. This mode is used to change multiple ranges at once.





And here are my results after tuning for WOT and shooting for an AFR of 13.1:1. I still have just a little tweaking to do. I was hoping that 1% fuel increase would equate to a constant change in AFR but that’s not the case.
 

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This is good stuff right here...extremely interesting :D
Al...I guess my biggest question would be "can you feel the difference" or is the whole experiment just gonna be for piece of mind that your bike is running the best that it can...the reason I'm asking that is because with the adjustments that I'm making on my bike (and I know I have a totally different setup) my gut feeling is that there is a "window" of operation that the bikes performs in and you may or may not be able to tell just from your "seat-o-the pants" meter...just my opinion...
Great job...can't wait to hear more :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man, I've been doing so much tuning on this thing that It's hard to tell. I've made so many runs I can't even remember how it felt before I started tuning it. They all just run together now. I'm sure it's peppier though. It absolutely has to be due to the fact that it's tuned properly now. I guess the only way to tell now is to get two bikes modded the same and put them side by side.

To top it off in the middle of doing the runs I switch out the stock tires and rims for 9" beadlocks and 20" tires and yesterday before the runs I put on a 13 tooth sprocket.
 

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He he he...yea I know...if we could just stop screwing with these things for a sec we might know what we are actually accomplishing...
On a side note...how do you like the 13 tooth? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No special formula for the bung. There's a heat range and I know that closer to the headpipe it slows at times. This was the easiest location to get to when putting it in and taking it out so that's what I went for.

Everything just disconnects and there is a plug that replaces the oxygen sensor.

I like the 13 tooth because I put larger 20" tires on it and it was just geared too tall for trail riding. It did quite well drag racing today too.
 

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wow that looks confusing........................
 

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im not an electrical wizard now but what is the reality of hookin up a safc? cost factor may be less since u can get one for about 150 or so. on the other hand to run a safc you need a map sensor which i dont believe there is one.

this is also getting way ahead of myself but what about larger injectors? i know that there would need to be extensive modification to even begin to reach the limits of a 450 injector (i assume thats what it is) since that in itself is a larger injector. looking at your mod list in ur sig i assume you may be reaching this point so i ask, have u looked at different injectors, such as a 1000 gsx-r or busa (im not possitive if they have efi)? in simple tearms a 1300cc motor would only have 320cc injectors so i dont think it would be any benifit but the 700 raptors would have larger ones. that would b a huge increase if they are 700cc injectors (if they fit) but with the fimak you could set the flow rate lower and still achieve a maximum output. just a few things to think about.
 

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Hinkle, yes that is the next step...as of yet no one has a larger throttle body out BUT...Dan @ DASA has been tinkering with building his own...we'll see after he kicks out these pipes he has going...should be interesting :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what mods are on the quad?? i know you probly have them posted somewhere but i couldnt find them...
[/b]
Full Yoshi
Stock filter
Lid off of airbox
PIM

Hopefully my Trinity intake will be here by Friday and I can start tuning for that. I was going to tune the rest of the throttle positions with the stock filter but I can't wait any longer! :p
 

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i thought all u had to do when u get the ful yoshi system, and bigger/different filter was buy the pim and u would be good to go, and would only have to do all the other fine tuning if u did other things to the motor, sorry to question, but iam not to sharp on this kind of stuff,
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh it's all fun. I'm going to start tuning from 3/4 throttle down now. Once I get my final MAP done I'll post it.

You can run the PIM with the full Yoshi and an open airbox just fine. What my results show is that the pim is not tuned for maximum power and is a tad bid rich throughout. I just decided to buy a setup that would allow me to tune it for maximum power without having to spend a ton of money on a dyno.
 
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