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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, i just installed my gunner killswitch. Its the NC like everyone else. I installed it just like then said grounded it and now it wont start very good, it will turn over and over, and the low few and temp light start coming on. Turn the key off, and try again, sometime it works sometimes it doesnt, but when it does it fires right up...

Any suggestions?
 

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Sorry...I can't find anything in the service manual that will help you...think I might just pull that thing off and see if the problem persists...at least you will know for sure if it's the kill switch or not... :(
 

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WAIT!!! Clone's light bulb finally came on after reading this.

You don't ground a NC switch. That is a NO switch that you ground.

I'm thinking it should just be allowing the current through the pickup line and only breaking the current when the switch is pulled... not grounding anything.

The NC switch is grounding it out when your key/plug is in place. I'm going to guess that if you pull the key/plug, it will start.
 

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For some reason Adam the Gunner normally closed switch does have a ground. I haven't installed mine on the LTR yet but it's the exact same switch I have on the Z. You take the Orange and white wire, cut it and hook a wire to each end. You then ground the other wire. I have no idea why but I'm going to check into this when I install mine. There is some sort of resistor inline also. When I checked for continuity there was still continuity when the kill switch was activated. I really need to check the resistance to see what's going on. I am guessing that it kills part of the current and not the entire current for some reason which is enough to kill the quad.

When I install mine I"m going to diagnose exactly what's going on.
 

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Dang, my light bulb just burnt out :(

Thanks for the info Al. I didn't realize that a NC switch would need a ground.
 

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Dang, my light bulb just burnt out :(

Thanks for the info Al. I didn't realize that a NC switch would need a ground.
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Believe me brother I can't figure it out either but I'm going to try. Doesn't make sense to me right now as you are only breaking a circuit so there should be no reason for a ground unless it helps bleed off some of the current which enough to kill the quad.
 

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Wait a sec...if there was still current flowing through the resistor...that would only be off one side of the switch...sooo...could it be that he has the wires reversed?...the resistor wire should be dedicated to only one side of the switch...so if you switched the wires that cut into the orange power wire then when you killed power you would in effect create a dead short...

Make sense?
 

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I'm not an electrician, but I'm going to guess the resistor is for the discharge to ground as you wouldn't want your current line to be resisted. Which I think that goes with Junkie's theory :smiley_1poke:
 

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I went to school for electrical...if you can believe that...but without some kind of schematic?..it's like swatting at a pinata blindfolded... :(
 

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..it's like swatting at a pinata blindfolded... :(
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That's not good.... I can't hit the thing with the blindfold off! :smiley_ninja:
 

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Wait a sec...if there was still current flowing through the resistor...that would only be off one side of the switch...sooo...could it be that he has the wires reversed?...the resistor wire should be dedicated to only one side of the switch...so if you switched the wires that cut into the orange power wire then when you killed power you would in effect create a dead short...

Make sense?
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That's entirely possible! I'm going to take my switch out of the package tonight and experiment with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When i installed the switch it already had the guick connects on the switch and all i had to do was install them on the wire i cut into... I put them on the proper side they told me. And the switch wouldnt work unless it was grounded.

But for some reason i only get this problem when the bike hasnt run for a while, when its warm it doesnt act up.

But when its cold the 2 lights come on and wont shut off, some time they are solid, sometimes they flash. I turn off the key and turn it back on and it usually fixes the problem!
 

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I dunno but to me it seems the culprit is the ground wire...I'm still totally confuzzled as to why a NC switch would need a ground...it's obvious that when you open the circuit the bike should shut off...if you wanted to ground the thing out then you would have bought a NO...

Hey...is it possible that this switch goes both ways?...kinda like a 1 size fits all set-up?

shot in the dark... :bangbang:
 

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Agreed, take the ground off and see what happens. And take some pics of what you have please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Another thing ive been questioning is the little inline fuse or whatever that thing is. The black cylinder looking thing. It could be defective, and if the switch is just intercepting the kill switch wire, why would it need it?
 

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When i installed the switch it already had the guick connects on the switch and all i had to do was install them on the wire i cut into... I put them on the proper side they told me. And the switch wouldnt work unless it was grounded.

But for some reason i only get this problem when the bike hasnt run for a while, when its warm it doesnt act up.

But when its cold the 2 lights come on and wont shut off, some time they are solid, sometimes they flash. I turn off the key and turn it back on and it usually fixes the problem!
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Did you have to just tap into the wire or did you have to cut it. If you only had to tap into it you have a Normally Open switch. You have to ground it in order for it to work. Personally I stay away from those types of switches, especially since the LTR is EFI. I don't like grounding a positive wire in order to kill the quad. You risk doing damage to the EFI. A Normally Closed switch just disconnects the power instead of grounding it.
 

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well with mine i put the ground on the light bracket for 1 and for 2 sad to do but scratch alittle paint off where it is grounded to for a better conection

well with mine i put the ground on the light bracket for 1 and for 2 sad to do but scratch alittle paint off where it is grounded to for a better conection
 

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Ok, Here's what I came up with.

There are 3 wires on the Gunner Switch.

1. Black (ground)
2. Red (Positive)
3. Greet (positive)

There is also a diode (that black bullet looking thing the wires run into). What it does is restrict current so it only flows in 1 direction. Now with that said with the kill switched armed the current flows from the wiring harness on your quad through the red wire on the gunner switch where it goes into the diode and then in to the switch. The current then flows out of the gunner switch back through the resistor and out the green wire which is hooked to the other end of the wire you cut to install it thus creating a complete circuit. Just a reminder that it's the wire that is orange with a white stripe coming out of the blob on the LTR clutch side. Once the kill switch is activated (spoon pulled) the current stops flowing from the green wire which kills the 12v power and your quad turns off due to lack of power to the system. There is still current on the red wire though but it can't pass through the switch because the switch disconnected the circuit.

Now I have found absolutely no reason for the ground wire unless it's a universal setup so you can supply your own ground and positive wire to hook up some sort of kill switch. Once I install it on the quad I'll confirm this.

There is also no way to use this as a NO switch that I can find. Still makes me wonder why they put the ground wire on there but both mine have it.
 

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I'm just pretty sure I wouldn't hook the dang ground up. Doesn't need it! Break the circuit, the machine stops... no ground needed.
 
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