[MXracer16]

Well, I just bought a Gunnar kill switch. It is a Normally Open killswitch, yet the instructions say I should tap into the original kill switch wires. I do not believe that this is right. Ive heard that you have to tap into a white wire under the seat on the left side of the bike. Which one of these is correct? If I have to go all the way to the back of the bike, will the wires have to be extended as well? Thank you for any input.

 

[AL Elks]

You bought the wrong switch. You need a Normally Closed Switch. The one you have will ground out the electrical and could do damage to your ECU. I would send it back and get the correct one.

If it were a Normally Closed switch you would take the Orange wire with the white stripe coming out of the blob on the handlebar, and trace that wire down into the plastic. Cut the wire, and then hook one end of the gunner to one side and the other end to the other side. You then run the ground wire to any nut or bolt on the frame,

Still not sure why this thing has a ground wire myself but that's what the istructions say to do. I have the same gunner switch on my Z also and it taps into the same colored wire.

Hope this helps.

AL

You can use the one you have but I would not risk damaging the ECU as that would get REAL expensive.

 

[quadracr]

Al
I just installed the Gunnar switch. I cut the orange/white wire and it wouldn't start until I hooked the ground wire to the frame. I'm not sure what the large round component is that the wires come out of, but for mine it needed to be grounded. I could hear it actuate when I grounded it. Leads me to believe it is an active component verses just a switch.

 

[MXracer16]

Alright, thanks AL. I didn't even realize I had bought the normal open switch until I got home. They dont take back electrical parts so Ebay, here I come.

 

[tlronny]

Use this for a n/c switch

 

[MXracer16]

Thanks a bunch, that will really help.

 

[zuk450]

Sorry to bring a dead thread to life. I am ordering a gunnar kill switch n/c. This is the correct way with this diagram here? I don't know much about wiring in general.

 

[racing66atv]

yes u hook up the 2 gunnar wires with the 2 orange wires....and ground the killswitch to the frame.

 

[kidsdad0101]

Do NOT hook a N/C kill to those orange wires. The orange wire go to the OEM on/off switch which is a N/O. IF you was going to utilize those orange wires then you MUST get a Pingel N/O kill.

 

[JSmall]

Do NOT hook a N/C kill to those orange wires. The orange wire go to the OEM on/off switch which is a N/O. IF you was going to utilize those orange wires then you MUST get a Pingel N/O kill.[/b]

Just when I thought I had it all figured out you post something like this...now I'm back to being confused

I give up

 

[JPhelps]

kidsdad is going against everything I was told and have read. The stock switch is N/C and with a normally closed tether we can hook right into the orange and orange/white and just ground the long black wire to the frame.

 

[zuk450]

Wow. I have no idea what to do now, everyone says something different. Maybe I'll just let somebody else do it!

 

[kidsdad0101]

Ya ya, so I jacked myself up. Thanks for catching it. I DOO hate looking like an idiot although it tends to happend from time to time.

N/C = Pingel is what you should hook up to the orange wires. Those are the connections to the OEM start/stop lever on the black blob, which is a N/C loop.

N/O = most all other types of kill switches. These need to be hooked up to a ground and to the magnito ignition (stator).

 

[AL Elks]

Just when I thought I had it all figured out you post something like this...now I'm back to being confused

I give up [/b]

Normally Closed (NC) switches do nothing more than interrupt the flow of electricity by breaking the connections. A Normally Open (NO) switch has an open connection and when you pull the spoon it grounds out a positive(hot) wire.

So for the LTR if you have a Normally Closed (NC) switch you want to do as I stated above and cut the orange wire with white trace and connect one wire from the switch to each of the wires you just cut. If it happens to be a Gunner switch you will also have a ground wire. Gunner has something going on where the ground is required. I haven't figured it out yet but it has to be hooked up to work properly when you hook it to the orange wire with white trace.

I haven't even researched a NO switch so I can't say for sure which wires you need to cut. Personally I like the NC switches because you are not grounding anything to kill the bike but to each his own.

Here's how I explained it on another site:



Just to clarify the difference between a normally open and a normally closed switch.

With a normally open kill switch you tap into the coil wire without breaking the wire and what happens is that when you pull the lanyard out it grounds out the coil.

With a normally closed kill switch you tap into a 12v line that feeds the electrical system by cutting the wire in two (which breaks the flow of electricity) and connecting two different wires to each end which go into the kill switch and when you pull the lanyard out it just breaks the flow of electricity.

Some may say "So What". Well if you ground out a Coil you run the risk of damaging your electrical system. I know Dyna recommends against the normally open kill switches in their instructions.

 

[kidsdad0101]

I haven't even researched a NO switch so I can't say for sure which wires you need to cut. Personally I like the NC switches because you are not grounding anything to kill the bike but to each his own.[/b]

Ground to the stem clamp. Route postivie along the left side of the frame to just above the fuel pump. Look for a blue wire (should be coming from the stator). This is where you will tie in with the N/O switch. This is how I have mine (pro armor).

 

[AL Elks]

I knew someone would come up with the answer! :first:

 

[OzLinc]

Easier, cleaner & safer.......uses the tip-over to kill the quad.

http://www.ltr450hq.com/invision/forums/in...?showtopic=6715

Linc

 

[NANNYLTR450]

i installed the Gunnar N/C switch. You find the orange and white wire from the blob. Cut it. Hook the red wire from the gunnar to the top wire going to the switch and then the green wire on the other side of the orange and white wire you cut. Then ground the Black wire. Its the same instructions that gunnar normally has for the Z400. Follow them and them read them close and you will be able to do it. Good luck


To many this and thats for a N/O switch. So i would get the N/C