Dyno A/f

2568 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by AL Elks, Oct 14, 2006

Bryan

Discussion Starter · Oct 10, 2006

Got to make a quick pass on a Dynojet the other day....Only got to make one pass and it was on the stock knobbies, not sure if that hurts or helps but just an FYI.

Bike made 46whp/31wtq...#'s arent great and I know there are stock bikes making more power than that but its dyno to dyno...so I dont need to hear anything is wrong with it...it runs hard I assure you... For comparisons sake...my buddies 05 YFZ with...

KENZ ported head
ESR Intake
Ron Woods Drag pipe
Crower Cams
CDI Box
Ported carb

Made 48whp/30wtq with near perfect A/F....Im all for Dyno Queen bikes but this dyno doesnt allow for it

NOW to A/F

.... its between 14.5-15.1 from 5500- redline. I guess I gotta bite my tounge thinking the A/F was ok cause the bike ran so good after the motor build. Power commander/FIMAK is gonna be on the way so I should have some sheets relatively soon after the tune :fro: This was on straight C12...there is no audible detonation so it being that lean actually kind of suprised me.

Anybody have any opinions on which is more user friendly...PC or FIMAK?

Thanks!!

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AL Elks

· #2 · Oct 10, 2006

Got to make a quick pass on a Dynojet the other day....Only got to make one pass and it was on the stock knobbies, not sure if that hurts or helps but just an FYI.

Bike made 46whp/31wtq...#'s arent great and I know there are stock bikes making more power than that but its dyno to dyno...so I dont need to hear anything is wrong with it...it runs hard I assure you... For comparisons sake...my buddies 05 YFZ with...

KENZ ported head
ESR Intake
Ron Woods Drag pipe
Crower Cams
CDI Box
Ported carb

Made 48whp/30wtq with near perfect A/F....Im all for Dyno Queen bikes but this dyno doesnt allow for it

NOW to A/F .... its between 14.5-15.1 from 5500- redline. I guess I gotta bite my tounge thinking the A/F was ok cause the bike ran so good after the motor build. Power commander/FIMAK is gonna be on the way so I should have some sheets relatively soon after the tune :fro: This was on straight C12...there is no audible detonation so it being that lean actually kind of suprised me.

Anybody have any opinions on which is more user friendly...PC or FIMAK?

Thanks!!
[/b]

I've heard the PC is more user friendly but If I remember correctly it takes a laptop to tune it. I really like the FIMAK I'm using. It's actually idiot proof (which is a plus for me). You're definately running lean in my opinion. I know I wouldn't run that high of AFR. The highest I might go is 14:1 just to see how she runs.

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AL Elks

· #4 · Oct 11, 2006

Don't need a dyno.

I have a bung welded into my exhaust pipe with a bosch 5 wire oxygen sensor that hooks to an LM-1. It allows me to monitor my AFR at all RPMs and logs the results. I"m at about 13.2:1 to 13.3:1 right now. I'm going to stop at 13.5:1. When I'm done tuning I just take out the oxygensensor and put in a plug and away I go.

I have a full Yoshi, modified airbox withthe Trinity intake. Also have the PIM and FIMAK.

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AL Elks

· #13 · Oct 13, 2006

Doubt it...The sniffer and a welded in bung are in pretty similar positions. If they differ, its not gonna be noticeable. Optimun reading for A/F are gonna be the first few inches of the header...unfortunately thats not possible with the 'sniffer' and probably not a great idea for the LM-1. Either way...whatever floats your boat.

All I can say is the power commander is bad ass... We plugged it in... set the a/f into the adjustment box for 13:1 and made a few pulls. The computer made every tiny adjustment itself for perfect a/f at 100% throttle...went to 80% throttle, same thing..perfect a/f all the way from bottom to top. 60% throttle...perfect a/f....all the way down to 5% throttle.

The a/f almost looks fake...straight 13:1 all the way across.

My old a/f was hitting 15:1 8-10k rpms....I actually picked up 2.5hp frpm 9k-10k rpms(peak remained the same), but I lost a few ft lbs peak from fattening it up

Its kind of decieving because the bike actually makes power earlier and holds on longer...even though I lost 2.5 ft lbs peak and gained nothing peak hp wise.

46hp/28ft lbs peak...
[/b]

I'll post a pic of where I have the oxygen sensor plugged in. No way I could get a better reading. You really have to be careful when putting something down the tailpipe that you put it in far enough that back pressure doesn't draw in oxygen and you get a false reading. Where I have it that would be impossible.

If you sit down and knock it out it really takes no time to do. I spent more time programming the RPM connection on the LM1 than anything else.

I'm curious about the Power Commander. Tell me what features it has that the FIMAK doesn't. Also can you explain a little more on how you tuned the AFR on the Dyno. I'm not quite sure I understand when you say the computer made the adjustments all by itself. Are you talking about the PowerCommander making the adjustments to the AFR?

How is the PowerCommander monitoring the AFR? Or could it be that I'm off base and the Powercommander plugs into the Dyno somehow and then the dyno does the adjustments.

Here's the pic:

See less See more

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AL Elks

· #15 · Oct 13, 2006

Ok!

I've got you now. I think it would work pretty much the same way on the FIMAK if I hooked it to the dyno as it adjusts by fuel percentage also. I think the biggest difference between the PowerCommander and the FIMAK is that you can load an entire map in to the computer/notebook and download it at once with the PowerCommander which can save you time. Unfortunately until someone cracks the code on the FIMAK that is not going to happen. Yoshi screwed us on that part. Once I started using it though it's pretty idiot proof and I can quickly change any points I need.

Doing it the way I have it hooked up take a little longer as I'm guessing as to how much percent to add or take away and then I have to make another run but I eventually get it there. I guess the good thing is that I don't have to take it 3 1/2 hours away to a dyno when I want to tune that sucker.

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AL Elks

· #18 · Oct 14, 2006

brian, thats good to know about the dyno doing the adjusting. all the dynos i've used and had other people used on my equitment must of been without some accesorys.
al, the pc also adjusts at 250 rpm increments while the fimak does 500 rpm. the pc also has a accelerator pump program with it for free. heard good reports but lets remenber its free. also i figure pc will have a little ingnition action before yoshi. also yoshi will probaly come out with a program like pc with the computer and then i woul have to buy that. also jamie at fuelmoto is awesome and help with info and directions which yoshi didn't.

also a friend of mine had some work done on his r450 w/ crower cams and at the dyno he showed 50.2 hp but mine at the track with pipe and pim airbox off was tearing him up.(flattrack.tt) one of the reasons i don't get all crazy about numbers.
[/b]

You're right about numbers. Numbers will vary from dyno to dyno (from what I've been told). Like FUELATV says you have to get a base line and then do your pulls on the same dyno to see what results you are actually getting. 52 on one dyno might be 47 or lower on another dyno. It actually makes total sense!

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