[[email protected]$$Rider]

I just got my ltr 3 days ago waiting for cherrybomb to come in. I need to know what do u do exactly to install it i heard that when you put it on you need to touch the positive and negative battery wires together i know how to hook it up but i need to know if this is true. I heard it swithches it to the second map.

 

[MikeLT-R]

I just got my ltr 3 days ago waiting for cherrybomb to come in. I need to know what do u do exactly to install it i heard that when you put it on you need to touch the positive and negative battery wires together i know how to hook it up but i need to know if this is true. I heard it swithches it to the second map.
[/b]

Ok, I have been visiting this site for awhile w/o becoming a member but after reading so many posts that mention the need for touching the positive and negative battery cables together to activate the cherry bomb I had to register so I could respond or at least ask a question.

How would touching ANY two wires together without POWER do anything??????? Without any current I cannot see that there would be any activity in the circuit. Am I missing something? I could possibly understand just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting after the cherry bomb is installed might activate the cherry bomb rather than just going to the EPA map but........ So as I said before, without a current, touching two wires together should be just that, touching two wires together.

Ok, as for the cherry bomb install, I think there are posts on here already that cover this and you may have already found them, but in short just look under the right front fender and you can't miss where to plug it in then zip tie it out of the way and it is done.

 

[alx]

I just got my ltr 3 days ago waiting for cherrybomb to come in. I need to know what do u do exactly to install it i heard that when you put it on you need to touch the positive and negative battery wires together i know how to hook it up but i need to know if this is true. I heard it swithches it to the second map.
[/b]

http://www.ltr450hq.com/invision/forums/in...p?showtopic=927

to activate you plug in

 

[[email protected]$$Rider]

Would just removing the baffle without the cherry bomb on make it run to lean.

 

[hotfishez]

I ran mine for a couple of days with baffle out, had no symptoms or signs of any problems.
Significant power increase. LEAVE AIR BOX LID ON, If you take it off, it will make you run lean.

Touching the + & - leads together discharges the residual power in the capacator so the fi ststem can reset itself. You dont need to do this for the cherry bomb install.

Just plug the cherry bomb in and then take the air lid off, ride it like you stole it old mate!!

 

[SandJunkie]

Hot...you are correct...but I cleared mine out anyways

Hey where's my roo pic?

 

[Porter Hill Performance]

ok id like to have a stright answer what does touching the positive and negative wires actually do for the fi. does it gain anything or is people just doing it just to do it?

 

[[email protected]$$Rider]

alright i pulled the baffle yesterday left lid on really helped it out. i was dead even with my friends 700 raptor with gytr slip on and power commander. I was pulling him slightly i had to let off i was bouncing off the rev limiter. also i raced my cousins 700 raptor with lte duals and dobeck chip. we were even for a few hundred feet then he started to pull by me. still waiting on cherrybomb to arrive.

 

[alx]

ok id like to have a stright answer what does touching the positive and negative wires actually do for the fi. does it gain anything or is people just doing it just to do it?
[/b]

Touching the + & - leads together discharges the residual power in the capacator so the fi ststem can reset itself. [/b]

what he said B) does the same thing in computers as well as in car ecu's

 

[Elburrodiablo]

Like alx said, it does the same thing for car ecu's. It drains the FI system of any power, therefore when you install the cherry bomb before reconnecting the battery, the FI system retrieves the map in the cherry bomb instead of the one pre-loaded into the FI ram. I know it sounds goofy, but it worked on my 450. I noticed the difference after doing it this way.

 

[asinatra]

first i highly doubt the ltr450 has any type of kam considering there is ZERO feedback modules so it has nothing to *learn* from. If you can't learn anything there is nothing to store. The CBRM just simply bypasses the factory MAP. This is like a *flip-chip* in the car whereas you dont have to reset the KAM, you just plug it in and go.

 

[SandJunkie]

Believe what you want...all I know is this FACT...since I was one of the first to install a fuel module on my LTR AFTER the CRBM was installed I had problems right away. The company that manufactured the module was completely mystified as to why this happened...this was because they had NO CRBM...they weren't available during development. SO when I installed the fuel module OVER the top of the new CRBM map it ran so rich it could hardly run (and yes I disconnected the CRBM before installing the fuel module).

After extensive testing (they borrowed my bike for 2 weeks) they found that the computer does in fact remember the new CRBM modified fuel map. SO in order for it to work correctly we had to clear out the CRBM modified map by touching the leads together and discharging the capacitors in the computer...thus resetting the bike to stock maps...then either run the original fuel module or install the CRBM and run the modified fuel module. I choose to run the modified module so I could take advantage of the higher rev limits and do some monkeying around with the fuel curves.

Again, you can talk all the techno jargon you want but I have personally had to work this out with the manufacture so I know it to be true.

Nuff said

 

[alx]

Believe what you want...all I know is this FACT...since I was one of the first to install a fuel module on my LTR AFTER the CRBM was installed I had problems right away. The company that manufactured the module was completely mystified as to why this happened...this was because they had NO CRBM...they weren't available during development. SO when I installed the fuel module OVER the top of the new CRBM map it ran so rich it could hardly run (and yes I disconnected the CRBM before installing the fuel module).

After extensive testing (they borrowed my bike for 2 weeks) they found that the computer does in fact remember the new CRBM modified fuel map. SO in order for it to work correctly we had to clear out the CRBM modified map by touching the leads together and discharging the capacitors in the computer...thus resetting the bike to stock maps...then either run the original fuel module or install the CRBM and run the modified fuel module. I choose to run the modified module so I could take advantage of the higher rev limits and do some monkeying around with the fuel curves.

Again, you can talk all the techno jargon you want but I have personally had to work this out with the manufacture so I know it to be true.

Nuff said
[/b]

does this mean you can install the CRBM reset ecu then disconnect and the Fi will learn the new map even with it disconnected? hmmmm, is there any way of checking if it works. what would you look for?

 

[SandJunkie]

Not totally sure what your getting at BUT...once you reset...your back at factory maps...if the CRBM is hooked up during the reset or in the loop after the reset then your bike is gonna go with the CRBM defaults...if the CRBM never touches the circuit after the reset...then your back at factory maps...

The only way to check it would be to ride it...see where your bouncing off the rev limiter just for starters...you will be able to tell the difference between the stock map and the CRBM for sure...just with your "ass-o-meter"

 

[jeffw]

Quite simple.... a crbm is sismply a 100 ohm resistor, when installed causes the ECU to use the race map. Remove the connector and it defaults back to the emissions map.

Here is an ebay link to but them for way less:
CRBM

Here is the location:

 

[Wally]

just got mine today also, and im wondering if you can plug it in, ride for a weeks or whatever, and then unglug it and have it back to normal? I tried taking mine off already and it seemed like it was on there pretty good. I just didnt want to pull too hard and stretch the wires or something.

 

[jeffw]

just got mine today also, and im wondering if you can plug it in, ride for a weeks or whatever, and then unglug it and have it back to normal? I tried taking mine off already and it seemed like it was on there pretty good. I just didnt want to pull too hard and stretch the wires or something.
[/b]

Zero troubles installing/removing (ECU either sees it on or off). Would suggest doing it when the quad is not running. You might need to stick a screw driver in the top slot and pry up a little. The connectors are a bit stiff.

 

[Wally]

ok sweet, thanks a lot. I have been trying to take it off by hand, and havnt managed to do it yet. I dont want to be sticking screw drivers in there and breaking anything though.

 

[grampax]

Great info a+

 

[ltrdan]

ok sweet, thanks a lot. I have been trying to take it off by hand, and havnt managed to do it yet. I dont want to be sticking screw drivers in there and breaking anything though.

i got mine off pretty easily with hang yesterday, make sure you're pressing the release button at the very end, it will pop right out if you do... don't just pull on the wires