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Discussion Starter #1
So long story short I'm really sick of fuel injection and want to get rid of it. I really want to do a carb conversion but I need to know everything required.to do this and the price tag associated with it. If anyone can help me with this info that'd be great! Thanks in advance!
 

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no set price, you could pay for a high price for a pre made kit or you might be able to get a yfz,crf 450 fcr carb from someone used very cheap. might have to make a custom intake too. look for a 41mm carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool, I'll just keep researching and keep an eye out im lookin to stay on the cheaper side thanks for your guys's help!
 

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im in the middle of doing a conversion myself. doing a one off custom that i came up with, hoping it works out for me. im tired of the fi problems, especially after i bought everything for the fuel system new but the lines and injector (had rebuilt) then got stranded and had to send injector out to get cleaned after a month of riding.
 

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PM boostin_20lbs he did the conversion not too long ago and absolutely swears by it. He did a ton of research on the whole process also. If you have any questions derek for sure could put you in the right direction.
 

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bootin did a fcr conversion, i spoke with him about some problems i had. probably the easiest way to go carb. r u going to run a built motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry guys wasnt able to get on for a few days. Yeah im running a decently built motor I was finally able to figure out the issue on mine. After setting the tps sensor back to spec I guess the ecu had gone into limp mode causing all my issues but after figuring that out she's runnin good. I would still like to do a carb conversion if I can do it with out being very costly. I'll have to pm boostin when I get a chance and get the details from him. Thanks for lettin me know who to go to.
 

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Anyone have any tips on what needs to be done to the wiring harness as far as deletes or work arounds etc?
 

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The most expensive part about doing the conversion is that you have to run an aftermarket rear shock. No clearence due to the rezzy on the stocker. If you already have a aftermarket rear...your pretty much $300 away from a carb'd LTR
i had rotated my shock to point the ressi in the other direction to clear the carb but the adjuster on the shock hit my exh pipe, running an out of frame would clear that problem but an out of frame can create other issues. i went with a marvin non ressi shock
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Boostin could you PM me your cell# I'd like to get all the details required to do the carb on my bike. thanks!
 

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The most expensive part about doing the conversion is that you have to run an aftermarket rear shock. No clearence due to the rezzy on the stocker. If you already have a aftermarket rear...your pretty much $300 away from a carb'd LTR
+1
I converted over last Fall (boostin helped answer quite a few of my questions -thanks again!) I just fired up my new 14.2:1 motor for 2012 and it is spot on! My only disagreement with Boostin's post is that you may end up spending a little more than 300 realistically. There are lots of specialized mods to the carb that Walsh racing has for sale on their web site so check with them if you're going to start from the ground up and definitely start out with Keihin 162 mains, 55 leak jet, and Keihin NHVR needle on clip 3 (that's the needle that comes out on the 450R quad). Set the accelerator pump arm to about 0.100" gap too. Good luck!
 

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Anyone have any tips on what needs to be done to the wiring harness as far as deletes or work arounds etc?
The wiring harness was easy. There are some weird problems some people spoke of with the key switch and starting and I believe some people had problems with the TOS too. The first thing to remember is don't do anything to the wiring harness, just unplug all of the "Good bye and Good Riddance" parts (i.e. fuel pump, TPS, Injector, and zip tie them to the harness. leave all the air and temperature sensors in place and don't remove them. After that some people then discover that they had to turn the key on then off and then on again to get the bike to start. I had a quirky problem like that so after trying some experiments with resistors that sort-of worked... I simply plugged in just the injector and wrapped it with black electric tape and zip tied it to the harness under the tank. the bike turns on and starts every time like it was born with carbs. If you plan on running a kicker and you want to gut the harness completely you will need to ground the harness so the ignition will fire. Good luck
 

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whoa lean jetting!, this would make you laugh, but i am running a 258 main jet and a 48 pilot, needle on 2ed to last clip.

This is my info based on my experience. had carb for over 2 years now.You will need a crf carb, Walsh fuel nut, Nos adaptor for carb You dont need a gutted harness and bike will run with stock harness. but it is better off gutting it. that is one of the points of getting a carb. A duel valve spring kit i recommend so you are not floating your valves with the carb kit. realisticly i spent over 700 for everything, Need the fuel nut so you can hold more gas in the bowl, do to the angle your bowl wont hold as much fuel. and you will bog out over whoops ect. I also recommend running a compactor still if you are using a kicker. And you will have to get a cherry bomb plugged in. Also wire the fan to run all the time on a separate switch. so it dont draw energy and improve spark

200$ for harness to be gutted
50$ fuel nut
200$ valve spring kit
200$ for carb
50$ for adapter.
40$ hot start lever and cable
20$ Fuel screw
40$ for honda throttle
20 for honda cable
And hopefully you are good with carbs cause you will need to change float levels do to carb angle or you will leak gas everything you just move the quad. If not thats another charge.


I am using a honda450r cable and throttle. you can drill and tap a stock ltr throttle. but i liked the honda alot better
 

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whoa lean jetting!, this would make you laugh, but i am running a 258 main jet and a 48 pilot, needle on 2ed to last clip.

This is my info based on my experience. had carb for over 2 years now.You will need a crf carb, Walsh fuel nut, Nos adaptor for carb You dont need a gutted harness and bike will run with stock harness. but it is better off gutting it. that is one of the points of getting a carb. A duel valve spring kit i recommend so you are not floating your valves with the carb kit. realisticly i spent over 700 for everything, Need the fuel nut so you can hold more gas in the bowl, do to the angle your bowl wont hold as much fuel. and you will bog out over whoops ect. I also recommend running a compactor still if you are using a kicker. And you will have to get a cherry bomb plugged in. Also wire the fan to run all the time on a separate switch. so it dont draw energy and improve spark

200$ for harness to be gutted
50$ fuel nut
200$ valve spring kit
200$ for carb
50$ for adapter.
40$ hot start lever and cable
20$ Fuel screw
40$ for honda throttle
20 for honda cable
And hopefully you are good with carbs cause you will need to change float levels do to carb angle or you will leak gas everything you just move the quad. If not thats another charge.


I am using a honda450r cable and throttle. you can drill and tap a stock ltr throttle. but i liked the honda alot better
Never heard of a 258 main Keihin jet unless you're running alcohol? We must be running two different carburetors because I'm running the same jetting the Walsh bikes are running on their carburetors and I just did a test and tune on my 14.2:1 motor this past Saturday and the jetting is spot on ( that's a true 14.2:1). Do you have the 2008 CRF 450 MX 41mm Keihin FCR? I'm also running the 42 pilot and the fuel screw is 2 1/2 out. As for running dual valve springs, you need to be very careful what type of springs you are running on which types of valves. I have the PSI single springs from CV Racing, they have about 42lbs seat pressure ( about 10 more than stock) on Xceldyne titanium valves (not sure what they tested out open at 0.0377" on my cam. The dual spring kits I've seen for the LTR are for stainless valves and hold much more seat pressure and quite a lot more open pressure...not sure ti valves would last very long but if you say they will then go for it. Most of what you have said in this post I agree with. However I do not run the hot start and I've never had any trouble starting without it so I just plugged it off. As for cooling the motor I've done a few mods to the Rodeo bike and it hasn't got over 190-200 on the ESR temp gauge yet, but it was only in the mid 80s last Saturday. If anyone is interested in the mods PM. I'd like to know more about what you mean by wiring the fan motor "separate switch so it doesn't draw energy" ?
Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I just got done building my motor as well im running just over 14:1 as well but I think if its gonna cost 700 im probably gonna wait till next winter to tear it all back down again unless I end up having issues later on. But thanks for all the great info I'll probably start stock piling parts for the conversion to do it this next winter.
 

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Its a 08 crf bored to a 43.5mm and a full walsh motor with 14:1. Drilled out jet to a 258, This is what paul turner did for me when setting my bike up and bike runs solid.

I use a duel valve spring kit from walsh, Witch i believe is just a kibblewhite kit. Ran it a full year on stock valves with zero problems Dont think you will have any issues. i now have over a year on my xceldyne TI valves with the kit. And i run on my rev limiter alot Just my style of riding.

Ive used hot start a few times, During summer after a few motos bike will start with out it. but a hell of alot easier with it. Just good to have


I have my fan hard wired to run all the time, It draws energy when starting so i have a switch to turn it off so it gets a stronger spark, This was one of the first things mike walsh told me to do. Along with getting a duel spring kit asap.
 

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I use a duel valve spring kit from walsh, Witch i believe is just a kibblewhite kit.
They use PSI springs. (as of last year anyway)

As far as the $300 goes, totally brain farted on the valve springs. But, that is not req'd, but suggested!

Rowe...if you need any more help, you can PM any of us. Walsh YFZ helped me out a ton when I was doing my swap. I did have the quirky ON then OFF then ON to start issue when I was e-start, but a TOS elim from KMS solved that issue for me. I gutted my harness myself to save some money...but all other prices listed above are about spot on. My set up all-in-all was about $550 with the valve springs. I would NEVER go back...this set up is much cleaner, and the quad is much more responsive, hands down! I am also running close build to yours and Blue Ranger's...14:1, P&P, ATP int cam, 08 exh cam.

You will love it...start saving :)
 

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I use a duel valve spring kit from walsh, Witch i believe is just a kibblewhite kit.
They use PSI springs. (as of last year anyway)

As far as the $300 goes, totally brain farted on the valve springs. But, that is not req'd, but suggested!

Rowe...if you need any more help, you can PM any of us. Walsh YFZ helped me out a ton when I was doing my swap. I did have the quirky ON then OFF then ON to start issue when I was e-start, but a TOS elim from KMS solved that issue for me. I gutted my harness myself to save some money...but all other prices listed above are about spot on. My set up all-in-all was about $550 with the valve springs. I would NEVER go back...this set up is much cleaner, and the quad is much more responsive, hands down! I am also running close build to yours and Blue Ranger's...14:1, P&P, ATP int cam, 08 exh cam.

You will love it...start saving :)
and I would like to add...an additional cost not mentioned if you plan on running 14:1 and higher are head studs torqued at 48-50 lbs. I've had to many high compression engines blow head gaskets on used OEM bolts (and yes they were fresh milled decks and true). I'll never run without head studs again. $70 KMS Racing.
 
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