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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There have been a few jabs at Trinity lately what's the deal behind that? Are they pumping up their dyno numbers or something?

Anyway the question is: if I get an LT like my wife's who would you have do a big bore build? Notice I said build (not kit), I just want to send them the motor, have them build it and dyno it, then send it back.

Please specifics about why and if you know about how much it would cost...

ANY info you can pass on (hopefully from first hand experience) would be appreciated...

I've got a big bore in my kfx700 and it's stinking fast, so the LT will have to be just as fast or at least close.

Oh by the way I'm a duner and generally like to sidehill and climb hills mostly... and of course drag race for hours... :scoot: :D

Thanks,

Dave
 

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FUEL is right.

Bigbore is normally the last thing you do unless you do all the mods at once. I've seen too many people have problems with Trinity Bigbore kits.
 

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I would have to agree with everyone here. There is WAY to much power to be had with the stock bore built right then bother with all the big bore products. If you stay with a standard bore, you will also have a less expensive cost in rebuilding when the time comes and probably not have to wait for special pistons or gaskets.

ATP Racing
 

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Absolutly send that engine over to ATP. He absolutly knows how to make that motor run. Ive had very good quality conversations with Mike and he gets my reccomendation. Im not just saying it either, i really mean it. Stock bore all the way.

Theres alot more ways to make power than just simply sticking cams in and hogging out ports. Mike has ALOT of knowledge and by sending the whole motor, he can set tolerances exactly where he wants them.
 

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Yup, ATP has a HUGE following everywhere you go. Great company who invests as much time as money into this sport, and they DEFINITELY know how to pinch every HP possible out of a motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No on the big bore? :huh: :blink:

You will have to work on me a little more with that one. On the kfx700 side guys have made very good HP (60ish rwhp) with cams, porting, piston (stock bore), big carbs, etc. But when you really want to build one you have to go with a bigger bore. Is that not true with the 450 motor's? Why all the TRX535's, etc. out there then? Or is this a Suzuki thing?

Sorry just noticed ATP is a sponsor on here. Is there anyone else that does this kind of work?

ATP can you tell me more about what you do? And how much a full build of a motor costs? Ported, cams, pistons, dyno'd, etc.

Feel free to lecture here, I'm honestly trying to learn what's what and your single cylinder world is new to me!

Oh on the rebuild, we don't put enough time on our bikes for that to be a factor I'd think... 3-4 big trips a year to the big dunes in Oregon and maybe 15 day trips a year to Sand Lake, Oregon.

Grand total I dunno, 300-400 hours a year on the bikes?

I'm off to go search the net for LT-r450 dyno sheets and engine building topics.
 

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im sure you could get a 60+hp gain wit the stock bore
 

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No on the big bore? :huh: :blink:

You will have to work on me a little more with that one. On the kfx700 side guys have made very good HP (60ish rwhp) with cams, porting, piston (stock bore), big carbs, etc. But when you really want to build one you have to go with a bigger bore. Is that not true with the 450 motor's? Why all the TRX535's, etc. out there then? Or is this a Suzuki thing?

Sorry just noticed ATP is a sponsor on here. Is there anyone else that does this kind of work?

ATP can you tell me more about what you do? And how much a full build of a motor costs? Ported, cams, pistons, dyno'd, etc.

Feel free to lecture here, I'm honestly trying to learn what's what and your single cylinder world is new to me!

Oh on the rebuild, we don't put enough time on our bikes for that to be a factor I'd think... 3-4 big trips a year to the big dunes in Oregon and maybe 15 day trips a year to Sand Lake, Oregon.

Grand total I dunno, 300-400 hours a year on the bikes?

I'm off to go search the net for LT-r450 dyno sheets and engine building topics.
[/b]
I think that the first question should really be, Why are you looking for a big bore setup?
If this is just something that you really want, then that is what you need to build and there is nothing wrong with just wanting a big cc quad. :) Also, what fuel are you wanting to run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think that the first question should really be, Why are you looking for a big bore setup?
If this is just something that you really want, then that is what you need to build and there is nothing wrong with just wanting a big cc quad. :) Also, what fuel are you wanting to run?
[/b]
I just assumed based on my past experience that was the way to make big power... But if it's not needed that's cool.

We use maybe 10 gallons a day on a big day so the cost of fuel isn't really a consideration for us.

Tell me about what you guys can do for a complete engine build that won't break the bank...

Are you Mike by the way? Thanks for taking the time to discuss this.
 

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I just assumed based on my past experience that was the way to make big power... But if it's not needed that's cool.

We use maybe 10 gallons a day on a big day so the cost of fuel isn't really a consideration for us.

Tell me about what you guys can do for a complete engine build that won't break the bank...

Are you Mike by the way? Thanks for taking the time to discuss this.
[/b]
Yes, My name is Mike.

What I ment by fuel is, do you want to stay on pump gas or do you mind running race fuel ? There are numerous avenues that we can take that will produce HP, but those roads might not be the best for your application.
 

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Race fuel can get VERY expensive and hard to come by and that's why he asked the question.

I pay $67 for 5 gallons of VP-U2 Race fuel. I'm getting ready to drop my LTZ compression down though so I don't have to run race fuel. Of course I run Oxygenated fuel so that's partially the reason it's so expensive.
 

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I've got a pump by my work where it is 5.50 a gallon for 110. Good stuff.
 

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Race fuel can get VERY expensive and hard to come by and that's why he asked the question.

I pay $67 for 5 gallons of VP-U2 Race fuel. I'm getting ready to drop my LTZ compression down though so I don't have to run race fuel. Of course I run Oxygenated fuel so that's partially the reason it's so expensive.
[/b]
What compression are you running that U2 with?

Hi Mike,

Running race fuel is no problem...

Thank you
[/b]
If you dont mind running race fuel, then that opens up a lot of doors. Send me a Pm and I will work with you a bit closer on budget and what not to come up with a price.

Thanks,
ATP Racing
 

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What compression are you running that U2 with?
If you dont mind running race fuel, then that opens up a lot of doors. Send me a Pm and I will work with you a bit closer on budget and what not to come up with a price.

Thanks,
ATP Racing
[/qu

I'm running 13.1:1 with a Lukes Racing 95.5mm bore 450 kit. I also have a few more things listed in my sig below.
 

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If I could make a sugestion, you had better get that fuel out of there before you have a piston failure. That fuel only has a motor octain of around 89 or 92 cant remember exactly. That fuel detonates terribly with compression ratios higher than about 11.1:1 or so. You might not be able to hear it, and it will run damn good, but its still to low of octain for that compression.

Just trying to maybe help you not have any problems.

Mike
 

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If I could make a sugestion, you had better get that fuel out of there before you have a piston failure. That fuel only has a motor octain of around 89 or 92 cant remember exactly. That fuel detonates terribly with compression ratios higher than about 11.1:1 or so. You might not be able to hear it, and it will run damn good, but its still to low of octain for that compression.

Just trying to maybe help you not have any problems.

Mike
[/b]
Mike, I believe you are thinking of U4. It only has a motor octane rating of 92. I know Al is running the U2 because it has a motor octane rating of 101. I don't like calling people out rather just clearing it up.
 

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I use U2 because of the high compression. It was originally designed for 2 strokes but works fantastic with high compression 4 strokes as it has the lubrication that is necessary.

U2
Designed for stock and modified 2-stroke applications. Makes up to 6% more power than pump gas and any basic nonoxygenated racing fuel. Passes fuel rules for AMA amateur racing, and is also perfect for club level racing, CCS, WERA and AFM. Makes engines faster and more responsive without harming the carburetor, O-rings or gaskets. For optimum horsepower and performance, do not store this fuel in vehicle — drain fuel system.

• Color: Clear
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Motor Octane: 101
• Specific Gravity: .717 at 60° F



U4
Used in stock and modified 4-stroke applications, as well as stock 2-strokes. Makes up to 6% more power than pump gas and any basic nonoxygenated racing fuel. Passes fuel rules for AMA amateur racing and is also perfect for club level racing, CCS, WERA and AFM. For optimum horsepower and performance, do not store this fuel in vehicle — drain fuel system.

• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane: 92
• Specific Gravity: .718 at 60° F
 

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I use U2 because of the high compression. It was originally designed for 2 strokes but works fantastic with high compression 4 strokes as it has the lubrication that is necessary.

U2
Designed for stock and modified 2-stroke applications. Makes up to 6% more power than pump gas and any basic nonoxygenated racing fuel. Passes fuel rules for AMA amateur racing, and is also perfect for club level racing, CCS, WERA and AFM. Makes engines faster and more responsive without harming the carburetor, O-rings or gaskets. For optimum horsepower and performance, do not store this fuel in vehicle — drain fuel system.

• Color: Clear
• Oxygenated: Yes
• Motor Octane: 101
• Specific Gravity: .717 at 60° F
U4
Used in stock and modified 4-stroke applications, as well as stock 2-strokes. Makes up to 6% more power than pump gas and any basic nonoxygenated racing fuel. Passes fuel rules for AMA amateur racing and is also perfect for club level racing, CCS, WERA and AFM. For optimum horsepower and performance, do not store this fuel in vehicle — drain fuel system.

• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane: 92
• Specific Gravity: .718 at 60° F
[/b]
DAOHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I apologize, I was completely thinking of U4, LMAO
 
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