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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
nlvredneck, is it a pain to change out your rear sprocket? I looked at it today and it is not setup like most quads. Do I have to completly remove the axle? Maybe I just need to look closer. Anyone else changed it out that could give me some tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Once again Fuel is right. 38 was way to low. I am defenetly going back to 36. I guess I should have tried it with the pipe before I went with the 38. There was a guy clocking us up choke at St. Anns and Driver311 on his stock LTR with just the 13t up front was consistently running 3-4 mph faster at mid hill. He even tried running my quad up the hill to see what it was like with the new pipe and he agreed that the gearing was way to low. He could definetly feel the power but just could'nt get the speed. So its back to 36 for me. 38 may be "purfect" for some but I think 36 will be better for me. Thanks for all your opions guys.
 

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Here is why I am confused...assuming 20" rear tires:

If he is running 13/36 in 3rd gear at 8,000 rpm he should be doing 45 mph.
If you are running 14/38 in 3rd gear at 8K you should be doing 46 mph...
If you are running 13/38 you should be trying to pull 4th on the hill at 8K doing 52 mph (2nd gear launch).

I have stated in the past I think a 14/37 or 14/38 would be more ideal for our riding with 21" rear tires. Unless I was gearing for the hill and a 2nd gear launch...

[attachmentid=2145]
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
NO NO NO! I was running 13/38 and he was running 13/36. The hill we were shooting there is no way to pull 4th. You can pull third about 1/4 of the way till you have to downshift. Choke Cherry is very steep, soft and you can't really get a run at it when your racing. I believe the fastest quad clocked on the hill that day was at 38 mph at mid hill which is not bad at all. I'm sure the built banshees could do better but there was a lack of them out there.

BTW I beat my friends quadzilla out at Thunder by 3-4 lengths. He was catching me but catching on someone does'nt make you the winner. The 13/38 gearing might have worked alittle better on Thunder cause its not quite as long. We never raced choke because he lost his rear brake and he would'nt race me. I thought he was being a puss so I took it up for him and had the hell scared out of me coming down. My friend zilla is by no means the fastest one out there. I did get waxed by someone else on a zilla though but I beat the one that mattered the most.
 

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On my ltr450 I run a 13/40 with 20-11-8 hauler/glider 8 paddle combos on a 7" rim. I did'nt have this set up last time to SA, but it pulls me up sand mt, UT in 3rd gear just right. I am now finally able to hit 5th gear on the back side. P.S. I do love both my zillas, nothing like the power of a good zilla. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
On my ltr450 I run a 13/40 with 20-11-8 hauler/glider 8 paddle combos on a 7" rim. I did'nt have this set up last time to SA, but it pulls me up sand mt, UT in 3rd gear just right. I am now finally able to hit 5th gear on the back side. P.S. I do love both my zillas, nothing like the power of a good zilla. :rolleyes:
[/b]
According to the Quad Calculator with the setup your running the mph is equivilant to running at the top of 2nd with stock gearing. To me that just means one more unessicery shift. JMO

13/40 = 45 mph
14/36 = 44.6 mph

BTW Were do you live? Maybe we can meet up out there sometime.
 

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According to the Quad Calculator with the setup your running the mph is equivilant to running at the top of 2nd with stock gearing. To me that just means one more unessicery shift. JMO

13/40 = 45 mph
14/36 = 44.6 mph

BTW Were do you live? Maybe we can meet up out there sometime.
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I live in Draper and go out quite often (Dunes only, just can't get into riding dirt).
I recently changed tires and need a lower gear, 20-10 -8 on a 7" rim leaves them tall and kinda round. I also like running the bike in 3rd 4th and 5th the gears as they are closer together and I'm not shifting so much.
Id like to meet up some time, nothing like a good ride in the dunes.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Love To Ride @ Sep 12 2006, 02:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I was thinking of purchasing a 38 tooth rear sprocket but I wanted to find out if anyone likes it?

A little off topic I have a freind with a lt500. When we race I always kill him through the woops but he always passes me right at the top of the hill. Do you think this gearing would possibly give me that little bit of speed to beat him. I know I will lose top end but I can never pull third all the way through the hill anyway. So maybe it may help, I don't know, PLEASE HELP. Anything to shut his dumb @$$ up. Although he will never race me on a track or any sort of a race with jumps or turns.[/b]
yep
 

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i run 13/38...wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better pull in third and fourth and i actually get to rarely use fifth now. in the sand i think its awesome
 

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So how much did you end up paying for the Dasa Pipe? i am looking to purchase soon and am on a low budget. Also I have the issue at glamis with the gearing. Is 13-38 gearing to low? Were you able to launch hard in 2nd gear?
 

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Maybe I am confused but you are saying he was pulling faster mph on the hill with 13/36 then you were with 14/38? And you were both in the same gear when tagged?
The gear ratio chart..people,people..use it..there is higher torque with a 13/36 then 14/38.. the 14/38 gives you top end and increased torque.. the 13/36 gives more torque on bottom and decreased top speed.. the numbers are close like 2.81 for 13/36.. 2.71 for 14/37 and 2.77 for 14/38.. the 13/36 would be equivalent to 14/39 at 2.79. my numbers are prob off a little but im not looking at gear ratio chart atm.. But thats why he can feel the torque of your machine but it isnt quite powerful on bottom as his.. But if given more gears and straight.. He would if he gets traction beat you in 1/8th mile and youd outrun him by like 10-12 mph in the 1/4th mile.. 13 tooth is cheating and wears chain and guides out and other driveline components take more stress.. bigger is always better and if you can go up on both to achieve desired gearing then it is recommended by pro to do so.. 14/39 14/40 15/35 14/41.. If you have the motor built larger front helps get power to ground without spin.. mild build stick with 14t, mostly stock go to 13t or if using larger tire like 20-22 tire you gotta go 13t whatever to get back to stock tire size / gear ratio and then always always gear down for power.. by gear down i mean go +1 +2 +3 on rear sprocket, then if you find you would need +4 in rear for desired result then id recommend gearing up the front sprocket by going down to 13t.. Otherwise look up the chart for sprockets gear ratio and compare numbers the larger the gear ratio the better the torque the lower the # nets higher top end.. you gotta find that ratio thats just better all around, has bottom and top too.. near 2.70 imo is best all around 2.90 is wheelie king, anything below 2.68 has great tractor ability and will lug you around especially if running a 15 front and -1 or more on rear will give you 90mph top end but will bog in the deep in taller gears like 3 and 4 gear.. i tend to figure out what lets 3rd pull the best.. i like strong hit from 3rd that pulls your arms off out of corners and up dunes.. 14/37 14/38 14/39 or like your buddy 13/36 and if i still need more power 13/37 is wild 😜 on any 450 quad.. my ltr is 14/36 stock and i have 14/38 but keep a 36 and 37 as 1 tooth contrary to beliefs does make a difference, noticable one too.. i was happy with 14/37 but 14/39 is closer too 13/36, id say try it but this post is like old old and im beating a dead horse but then again i wanted others to have that info on how to properly gear and how too use gear ratio chart.. because there isnt many factual answers out there.. For those that just want some quick dirty torque at cost of wear and tare be my guest pick up a 13t sprocket and rocket but i highly recommend sticking to 14t add the teeth to rear till you cant no more, 1t drop in front is = 2.5t to 3.5t added to rear.. which also is the percentage of increased performance efficiency is like each tooth 1t =10 percent, 2t= 20 percent, 3t =30 percent torque givin available HP is there to accommodate, anything more will require mods to make the HP (hc piston,cam, exhaust, tuner,(jetting for more fuel) race fuel in order to feel any gains, especially when you get into bigger gears like 15/36>>>>you need power available or have too much power(tire spin).. i hope this helps someone.. Now go get you some mods and Find that HP and find a gear ratio thats better then stock but not excessive, you and your engine will thank me later..
 
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