PRM full swingarm skid issue

ridedeathmetal · #1 (**permalink**) 06-16-2009, 10:44 AM

Just installed my PRM full swingarm skid this morning. Other than the rotor side hose clamp being a complete pain in the ass, installation was very easy.

Only other issue I had is that the alan head bolt hole on the side of the swingarm that originally housed one of the 2 bolts that held the OEM rotor guard on didn't line up with the skidplate hole. Instead of taking everything off again and re-bolting in a different order, I thought I could get the bolt in, and cross threaded the first 2 threads.

So now I have a bolt hole in my swingarm that I don't want to chance forcing a bolt into and further damaging it , and I'm one bolt short of having the skid plate completely fastened. Should I bother with re-tapping this hole, aka, is that one bolt going to be essential to the success of my swingarm staying on? Or should I just leave it be and ride the shit out of my quad tomorrow?

Doesn't look like this hole could be used for anything else...

Suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Edit: Also, chain significantly drags plastic glide, is this a non-issue? I assume it is, will just wear down, don't think it will cause enough friction to hurt anything. Also realize I posted in the wrong thread... sorry

PapaOX · #2 (**permalink**) 06-16-2009, 08:59 PM

All that bolt on the side does is hold the plate on and doesn't concern any other parts. That being said, yes you def need that bolt cause once you start beating it the bolt on the bottom ain't enough. If your just trail ridding for one day it should be good but just watch what you hit and keep an eye on it.

I'd first try to retap it and if that don't work then put in a heli-coil type thingy. Oh and use locktite.

The chain does glid on the plastic, which holds up pretty good. It's fine.

**vinrider1** · #3 (**permalink**) 06-17-2009, 05:13 AM

Yeah, I had some of the same issues with mine. Got to get all of the bolts in there like was stated earlier otherwise you are going to tear it up. And yeah the hose clamps suck for sure. Seems like there could be a better way to fasten the thing in the front. But once its on it works great.

ridedeathmetal · #4 (**permalink**) 06-17-2009, 10:22 AM

Well I tried cutting a notch into an M8 bolt and driving it into the hole to clean up the threads, but to no avail. Funny how these threads got so boogered with about 1/8 of a turn the first time I tried putting the bolt back in. Oh well, should've just taken it off and re-installed.

Looks like i'm stuck boring it out and tapping it with an M10.. Maybe I can bore it out with a bit and attempt to drive an 8mm helicoil in, but i'm afraid i'm gonna have to go bigger. I think for the riding I'm doing at this point (90% track), missing that one bolt isn't gonna hurt me too bad. Got other bolts loc-tited and cranked tight, and hose clamps on tight.

I'll get around to re-tapping it someday...

ridedeathmetal · #5 (**permalink**) 06-18-2009, 04:18 PM

Ended up using the new M8 bolt with a notch cut into it to clean out threads. Got my original bolt in smoothly and lock tited. Took it out to the track today for the first time and it held up beautifully.

Just for future reference for anyone who crossthreads just the first 1-3 threads and doesn't know this trick: use a diamond blade on a grinder or w/e to cut a notch into the end of a new bolt that is the same diameter and thread count, and drive it into the hole. It works like a thread cutting bolt, and cleans up those first few boogered up threads. Its good to try this before re drilling and tapping!

**SandJunkie** · #6 (**permalink**) 06-18-2009, 05:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by ridedeathmetal

Ended up using the new M8 bolt with a notch cut into it to clean out threads. Got my original bolt in smoothly and lock tited. Took it out to the track today for the first time and it held up beautifully.

Just for future reference for anyone who crossthreads just the first 1-3 threads and doesn't know this trick: use a diamond blade on a grinder or w/e to cut a notch into the end of a new bolt that is the same diameter and thread count, and drive it into the hole. It works like a thread cutting bolt, and cleans up those first few boogered up threads. Its good to try this before re drilling and tapping!

Good tip...

Baracudaaa · #7 (**permalink**) 06-19-2009, 09:32 AM

Ive re-tapped all mine to m10, and use some u-bolts instead of the pipe clamps for the front mounts. And like said before, use loc tite, they will rattle loose is hard riding.