Due to a redesign of the BCS Shift PIN Relocator bracket, this video has been temperately deactivated. NormalZ has explained in this tread the issue with the new BCS Shift pin relocator.
If you have questions about this tech article please address them to him as he can explain each step and give you the correct answer for any of your questions.
Quote: Originally Posted by
NormalZ
NOTE: This is the OLD BCS bracket design, in my install writeup. It is NOT the new bracket that they're selling now. If they don't "fix" this new bracket and incorporate the previous bearing/bushing retainer portion that was in the original design, then I'd recommend NOT USING their new bracket...
Quote: Originally Posted by
NormalZ
I talked to BCS today, and asked several questions about the new bracket. You DO NOT use the stock, stamped steel bearing retainer with their new bracket. The new bracket does not have the same design as the old - the top piece is not present on the new bracket, but it was there on the old bracket.
There is nothing on the new bracket that holds the bearing/bushing in place on the end of the kickstart idler shaft.
Based on that, the install instructions presented in the video, which were good for the old bracket, will not pertain to the redesigned bracket. The earliest online reference I could find for any mention of the bracket not being the same was from October, 2009. Someone back then was stating that their bracket didn't look the same as the one in the videos. Again, I don't know when the actual redesign took place, when production changed, or any of those particulars. However, I can say my install instructions are not intended for the "newer" piece, and were written for the install of the original bracket design.
Use the new piece at your own risk; personally, I don't like the design of the new one, as it doesn't/can't support the bearing/bushing on the end of the kickstart idler shaft.
[quote name='NormalZ' date='Mar 4 2007, 11:36 AM' post='27245']
The accounts of broken engine cases at the shift pin are many and varied, but all accounts of this equal money. Engine cases from the very best online OEM parts house that I could find are $497.17 for both sides, as the “Crankcase Set,” Suzuki Part #11301-45810. That’s not cheap, by any means…
A much cheaper alternative, and a radically stronger alternative, is the BCS Performance LTR Shift Pin Relocation Bracket. This billet aluminum bracket retails for $150 on the BCS Perf website, and I’ve seen it on the BCS eBay store before. Site Sponsor FUELATV sells it even cheaper than that – Send a PM to FUELATV for the details on the deal. FUELATV is basically selling these through an agreement with BCS Perf at a very small margin – he’s doing it as a service to LT-R450 owners based on the fact that this is a very necessary upgrade to the LTR transmission. That’s damn cool right there.
(EDIT - In addition to this write-up, there is a Tech Video on the install, and the links to the video sections are listed at the bottom of this post...)
Okay, on to the install. First start with quality tools. Nothing will tear up your bike faster than using cheap tools. Since you’re working on engine internals, this is even more important. Also, start with a clean engine and clean machine. It’s much easier to work on it when you don’t have to worry about knocking off dirt into the clutchpack or anything else like that. Drain the coolant and oil before you start.
I had to do some things a little differently during the teardown – I couldn’t remove the entire side case (with clutch cover) as one piece. The IMS pegs cover part of the head of the rear brake lever pivot bolt. I wasn’t going to remove the pegs and nerfs just to get that lever off and out of the way. Instead, I removed the clutch cover first, removed the clutchpack (had to come out anyway), then wiggled the sidecase out of there. Let’s get to it:
Here’s the outboard side of the BCS Performance shift pin relocation bracket:
Inboard side of it:
Top view of it – this is a damn high quality piece!
Here’s the clutch cover, with associated bolts – make sure you keep track of each bolt, and where they go (with cable brackets). In this pic, I’ve got the bolts (and brackets) next to the holes in the clutch cover that they go it. If you lose track of what goes where, just refer to this pic:
Remove the clutchpack (10mm socket will remove the bolts that hold the clutch drive plate and springs in there). I use the drill to remove them, because the bolts are so long, but I certainly won’t use the drill to put everything back together.
Clutch drive plate, springs and bolts out of the way. You’ll need to remove the clutch operating rod and bushing (Red arrow) and the large clutch basket nut (Green arrow):
Much debate in the past, on the LTZ – the last fiber plate is offset in the clutch basket:
Clutch operating rod and bushing – just pulls right out (fibers and steels already removed).
Note – don’t mess with the clutch lever once this is out – it’s a pain on the LTZ to get the activating arm and rotating cam back into place, and get the clutch working, if you mess with it. Probably a pain in the LTR, too.
Sucky pic, I know, but… Green arrows in this pic points to the bent lock washer behind the clutch basket nut. You’ll have to bend the tab out of the way in order to remove the nut.
Once you do that, here’s some advice on removing the nut – Airgun. If you don’t have access to an airgun, you’ll have to remove this nut before you take out the fibers and steels. Put the transmission in 5th gear and have a buddy get on the rear brake. Pop that nut loose, and it’ll spin right off once it’s loose.
Remove the clutch hub and clutch basket. Don’t lose the washer that’s between the clutch hub and the clutch basket – it should stay stuck in the clutch basket, around the shaft, but it might stick to the back of the clutch hub then fall out. Just watch out for it.
Next, remove the side case. There are two locating pins in the engine case, but they may come out with the side case removal. There’s one at the upper left side and one at the lower right side. If you’re really careful, you won’t tear the gasket – it’s a pretty tough gasket, anyway. If it doesn’t tear, you can re-use it. Also, make sure you keep track of which sidecase bolts go where – they’re not all the same length. I didn’t get a pic of this, and I wish I had. I’ll eventually get a pic of this step when I install the bracket in a buddy’s motor.
Now, you’ll have full access to what you need to work on. Here’s what it looks like with the side case removed. You’ll need to remove the shift pin (Green arrow) from the engine case, and install it into the BCS Bracket. You’ll also need to remove the steel tab (Red arrow) because the BCS Bracket bolts into those two factory holes.
The two Phillips screws aren’t too bad to get out of there, if you take your time. If you have an impact driver, I’d highly suggest using it here. Don’t hit the thing too hard, or you could crack the engine case – just use enough force to get the job done.
If you don’t have access to an impact driver (I couldn’t find mine that night), then use a long #2 Phillips screwdriver. Tap the cross of the screwdriver into the Phillips screws using a plastic deadblow hammer – make sure the screwdriver is fully seated into the screws. Keep pressure on the end of the screwdriver, and put a large Crescent wrench over the handle of the screwdriver (size up the Crescent ahead of time so you can just grab it with one hand and slap it on the screwdriver handle). Push in hard on the end of the screwdriver, and turn the Crescent wrench – the screws will break free and come right out.
Once those are removed, you can throw that little steel tab away – you won’t need it ever again.
Move to the other side of the engine, and remove the shift lever. You’ll need to remove the snapring that holds the shift shaft in place, and having the shift lever out of the way (removed) just makes it easier. Remove the snapring holding the shift shaft. Back to the other side now…
Slide the shift shaft out of the way so you can gain access to the shift pin, indicated by the Green arrow. Remove the shift pin, and clean all the oil off of it with carb cleaner. Slide the shift shaft back into place, making damn sure you have the two toothed gears centered up. Move back to the other side of the engine again, and put that snapring back on the shift shaft – you can put the shifter on later. Also, remove the nut indicated by the Red arrow.
Install the stainless steel spacer that came with the BCS Bracket onto the stud that you just removed the nut from (in the step above). Use red Lock-Tite.
Install the shift pin into the BCS Bracket. Use red Lock-Tite.
The shift pin will stick out of the BCS Bracket pretty far. No worries. I have some advice for that coming up...
Mount the BCS Bracket into the engine case. I cleaned out the two holes (that the Phillips screws came out of) with carb cleaner and a Q-Tip. I put a little red Lock-Tite in those two holes, and in the end of the stainless steel machined spacer. I also installed a serrated flange nut in the end of the shift pin, where it stuck out of the BCS Bracket. This nut didn’t come with the BCS Bracket kit, but I’m paranoid about things like that. I highly doubt the shift pin would ever come out of the bracket if that nut wasn’t there, but now I know it’ll never come out of the bracket.
Same pic coming up again, but for a reason… The shift pin, serrated nut on it or not, and the small stainless allen bolt (Green arrows below) are not going to clear the sidecase gasket when you assemble everything. You’re going to have to cut two small holes out of the gasket to get it together. If you don’t, you can still force everything together, but you might tear the gasket, or pull it up from the bottom of the sidecase. If that happens, you’ll have an oil leak from the bottom of the sidecase. Just cut it. Details coming up on the cuts, further down.
Here it is, installed. Time to start putting everything back together.
Now you can see where the gasket doesn’t clear the shift pin and the small stainless allen bolt. Mark the gasket in those two spots with a screwdriver, and prepare to start cutting.
Here’s how I cut it to clear the shift pin, and that serrated nut I put on there. I don’t have a pic of what I cut for that small allen bolt, but it was a smaller hole to clear that little thing.
Bolt up the side case, and start the clutch reassembly. Reverse order of the teardown. Clutch basket goes in first. Don’t forget this washer that goes between the clutch basket and clutch hub.
Next is the clutch hub. There are two large-diameter washers that go over the clutch hub – this is the first one, and it’s flat.
This is the next one, and it’s a beveled washer. You can see that in this pic. Install it like described in the pic.
Here it is, going in:
Clutch pack (fibers and steels). All the steel plates are the same. There are two different types of fiber plates. Two of them are different than the rest. The two that are different are the very first and last ones to go in. Again, inboard and outboard plates are different from the rest. In the pic below, the fiber plate on the left is what the first and last look like. The fiber plate on the right is an example of what all the other ones look like.
Well, happy wrenching!
If there are any questions, just reply in this thread.
Go Ride!
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