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11-24-2006, 03:28 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Deerfield Beach, Florida
Posts: 176
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I did a search, but couldn't really find an answer. Can I put in synthetic right from brand new, or do I have to run conventional during break-in. Alot of the new cars have synthetic right from the factory, and they're not broken in yet.
Thanks
2007 LTR--White
Quad Tech Seat, Beak, Spider Grips
Walsh Stem, Fasst Bars, Precision Stabilizer
Twin Air Filter, Powermadds
Fox Shocks, front and rear
Lonestar Rear Hubs
Razr 2's, I-Razr's, Hipers for XC
Holeshot's, Douglas Wheels for MX
IMS Roll Pegs, Nerfs, Heels
Tag Sprockets, DID Chain, Billet Case Saver
DMC Quiet Afterburner, MoFlo Airbox Lid, Cherry Bomb
AC Skids, Bumper
Holz Plate Bracket
One Flame Graphics
Suzuki Carbon Frame Protection
E-Brake/Blob removed
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11-24-2006, 05:06 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NE Kansas
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It definately won't break in as quickly and won't even break in as good. The longer it takes to break in, the more wear/damage you are doing.......JMO
It's better to be quiet and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt
When in doubt, GAS IT..... either you will fix the problem or end the suspense.
'89 310R, Pro-X cylinder, "fiveO" ported, race gas dome(198 psi), LRD pipe, 38mm airstryker, ESR intake, VF3 reeds, +1 housers/TCS triple rate zps
'06 LTR- PIM, RS-5, trinity air filter kit, no airbox, some polish work.... <---- sold 
'04 GSX-R750- Yellow/Black, Yoshi TRS slip on, flush mount turn sig, fender elim, frame sliders, TRE kit
-Adam</span>
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11-24-2006, 07:09 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: More Bumfuque than Junkie
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Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.
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11-24-2006, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
Posts: 291
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Quote:
Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.
[/b]
I agree.  Considering the cost savings of conventional over synthetic, you could change your oil far more frequently by just using a quality conventional oil.
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11-24-2006, 08:57 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Elgin, IL
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Don't know if this is Synthetic, but i run Valvoline 10w40 4-stroke oil and it works great.
2006 black LTR450 w/ Yosh Race motor and Candy Blue frame
Yoshimura RS-5 exhaust, ITP MXR6's on ITP pro beadlocks, Renthal Xring chain, Tag T2 Rc high bars, Tag +1 steering stem, Pro-Design Pro-flow airfilter kit, Hinson shift pin relocator, UM alum. oil tank, Pro Aluminum nerfs w/ heelguards, Rath grab bar, Walsh flow a-arms, Walsh Savior swingarm, Laker Custom black plastic, Tag Railer Skidplate, Precision stabilizer, Tag bumper, FOX Float evol x shocks, Fox Podium x rears shock,
2007 Black LTR450
Rath Racing monster pegs w/ heelguards, CRP stabilizer, Yoshimura RS5 exhaust, Cherry bomb, Renthal RC high bars, ITP mxr6's on itp pro beadlocks, Tag Railer skidplate, back to stock shocks
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11-24-2006, 09:04 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta
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Quote:
Don't know if this is Synthetic, but i run Valvoline 10w40 4-stroke oil and it works great.
[/b]
That's a conventional oil, I run a similiar 4-stroke oil from Pennzoil.
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11-24-2006, 11:13 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tyrone, PA
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how about thumper 10w 50 says its good for wet clutches and high performance 4 stroke engines and its semi synthetic.
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11-24-2006, 12:06 PM
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Senior Member
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Location: More Bumfuque than Junkie
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I wont run synthetics. Learned the hard way. Do as you think. Call some race shops. Ask them what they recommend. Then research online...best way to get good info.
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11-24-2006, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 967
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Quote:
Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.
[/b]
Well Synthetics wont burn up yur clutch. My cousin runs Amsoil MCF 10W-40 100% Synthetic in his '06 YFZ 450 for about 3 monthsd now. And he says that his clutch works even better! And shifts smoother in the higher RPM's. Amsoil states that they are designed for wet clutch applications anyways. Im going to be switching to Amsoil 100% synthetic as soon I finish up my Maxima. Running conventional oil is fine too it wont help or hurt the motor. The down side is that it's $8.95 a QT. Bottom Line I notice that running "Amsoil Synthetics" isnt bad for your clutch.
Thanks to my 06'-07' sponsors
***KlipticMotorsports***
***OMF Performance***
***Liquid Performance***
***Amsoil Racing***
***ASV Inventions***
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11-24-2006, 03:05 PM
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mastiff's rule
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 558
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I run rotella T synthetic in my ltr and not one problem The ones you have to look out for is the ones that say energy conserving on the back of the container. Thats were you run into problems with the clutch slipping .
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