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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 03:28 AM Thread Starter
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I did a search, but couldn't really find an answer. Can I put in synthetic right from brand new, or do I have to run conventional during break-in. Alot of the new cars have synthetic right from the factory, and they're not broken in yet.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 05:06 AM
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It definately won't break in as quickly and won't even break in as good. The longer it takes to break in, the more wear/damage you are doing.......JMO

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 07:09 AM
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Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.
[/b]
I agree. Considering the cost savings of conventional over synthetic, you could change your oil far more frequently by just using a quality conventional oil.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 08:57 AM
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Don&#39;t know if this is Synthetic, but i run Valvoline 10w40 4-stroke oil and it works great.

2006 black LTR450 w/ Yosh Race motor and Candy Blue frame
Yoshimura RS-5 exhaust, ITP MXR6&#39;s on ITP pro beadlocks, Renthal Xring chain, Tag T2 Rc high bars, Tag +1 steering stem, Pro-Design Pro-flow airfilter kit, Hinson shift pin relocator, UM alum. oil tank, Pro Aluminum nerfs w/ heelguards, Rath grab bar, Walsh flow a-arms, Walsh Savior swingarm, Laker Custom black plastic, Tag Railer Skidplate, Precision stabilizer, Tag bumper, FOX Float evol x shocks, Fox Podium x rears shock,



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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Don&#39;t know if this is Synthetic, but i run Valvoline 10w40 4-stroke oil and it works great.
[/b]
That&#39;s a conventional oil, I run a similiar 4-stroke oil from Pennzoil.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 11:13 AM
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how about thumper 10w 50 says its good for wet clutches and high performance 4 stroke engines and its semi synthetic.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 12:06 PM
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I wont run synthetics. Learned the hard way. Do as you think. Call some race shops. Ask them what they recommend. Then research online...best way to get good info.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Natural oil is always going to be your best bet. Most synthetics are not designed for the wet clutch in our machines. It causes early degradation of the clutch plates. There are synthetics designed for the wet clutch but as I have learned from experience with my big-bore kit, synthetics will KILL your clutch in a weekend. At least it did on the LTZ. Alba and FBC in San Diego recommended, never use synthetics. Advice I follow with my LTR.
[/b]
Well Synthetics wont burn up yur clutch. My cousin runs Amsoil MCF 10W-40 100% Synthetic in his &#39;06 YFZ 450 for about 3 monthsd now. And he says that his clutch works even better! And shifts smoother in the higher RPM&#39;s. Amsoil states that they are designed for wet clutch applications anyways. Im going to be switching to Amsoil 100% synthetic as soon I finish up my Maxima. Running conventional oil is fine too it wont help or hurt the motor. The down side is that it&#39;s $8.95 a QT. Bottom Line I notice that running "Amsoil Synthetics" isnt bad for your clutch.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 03:05 PM
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I run rotella T synthetic in my ltr and not one problem The ones you have to look out for is the ones that say energy conserving on the back of the container. Thats were you run into problems with the clutch slipping .

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